Hi, as the tip section is longer than the tail section, taking the real middle isn't sensible - the center of the camber will be way too much forward. If you want a "centered" camber, use contact point to contact point (the points where the ski "lay" on a flat surface). Most skis...

Hi, if you want an egde around the tip, it will be easier to make this way. As I said, bending a single edge around the tip is really hard. Usually, the edge twists a bit when its bent, meaning that the teeth of the edge are not "flat" with the tip, As you are starting to build skis: just ...

Hi,

what do you mean with "true center"?

best regards

Hi, Edges around the tip: Almost everyone here only partly wraps the edges around the tip, because bending them precisely around the tip is very difficult indeed. I would "stop" the edge quite close to the tip, before the real narrow bend around the tip would be. Veneer: thicker veneer add...

Hi, I am always using a single layer of 300g/m² uni flax directly below the top sheet - this is how bcomp (the manufacturer of the flax fabrics I use) recommends it. It really has a great dampening effect like this. The carbon I am using is differently from ski to ski, but mostly 300g/m³ triax with ...

Hi, some things come to my mind regarding the weight: I don't think your skis are heavy regarding their surface area. if you want to use it as touring skis, then yes, they are a bit heavy. You could try to add some lighter wood (e.g. paulownia) to your wood mix. Poplar soaks liquids quite well. In y...

Yes, thats a different way to do this. But what I am wondering: Did some of you do this? If so, did you like the result?

Hello Skibuilders, I am starting to build some pairs for next winter. Mostly, they are very sportive on-piste skis (66mm underfoot, 72mm underfoot, 84mm underfoot). I tested previous builds as well as serveral factory skis on my workbench. One thing I noticed: When taking the foot area as "zero...

When I worked in a ski service, we used a plastic ski wax scraper and ran it over the stone after re-structuring with the diamond. You feel "leftover" stone at once with the scraper, and with modest pressure you can take the "leftover" off. This helped, but it does not guarantee ...

Hello Alan, a 1.5mm gap is definitely way too much, especially for a race ski. It seems the one ski is either a faulty production or it was damaged somehow. I would definitely send the skis back to the reseller and get your money back. I am pretty sure Atomic will back up this opinion. I would not t...

Wow - these Skis look really really nice! Did you design the topsheet yourself?

Nice Skis - I wish my first pair looked like this. Or even more, skied properly

Hi there, does someone know a tape which is designed to stay in laminates? As my core has quite exactly the width of base + edges (no more than 0.3mm extra), I want to avoid any core shift. Additionally to my well-working system using thumbtacks glued to the base, I would like to tape the core to th...

Hi, regarding dampening: This is the part I like most about my selfmade skis. The 300g/m² Flax uni on top works extremely great with the carbon. The skis are "quieter" under foot than all titanal skis I have ridden. They also do not vibrate on ice, they just "slip" more than the ...

I compared my self-built skis to the race skis - it is definitely the torsional stiffness that is stronger in the race skis. So, for my next skis, I will add some biax to the carbon triax and see how much that changes. Not sure yet how much additional biax to add (the carbon triax I use contains 200...