WoodTony

[antoxasam]

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Hello everyone. I have been reading this forum for 2 years and finally my dreams began to come true.
First pair of skis:
124-75-104
Ash+aspen core(thickness tip 2 mm, waist 11.5, tail 2.5 mm)
Quadroaxial fiberglass 0/+45/90/-45
Base Isosport IS7200 sintered 1.2 mm
Edges 1.2 mm
Topsheet: iroco and eucalyptus veneer
Urethane plastic sidewalls

For core I used ash(darker) and aspen(lighter). I glued 2 cores at once using polyurethane glue.

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For pouring liquid plastic, I made a groove in the core using a CNC cut MDF template.

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I used a pneumatic press. Glued under pressure 3 atm with heating using two silicon blankets at 176F(80C) for 60 min. Then I let them cool in the press for 4 hours to 90F(32C). I got a slightly higher camber then I expected(about 12 mm instead 7 mm in mold).

[antoxasam]

My press:

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Length 2.5 meters, depth 0.4 meters.
The bottom and top of the press are assembled from 4 H-beams with a height of each beam 0.2 meters. Total 8 beams plus side walls.
Fire hose 15 cm in diameter.
Steel cattrack.

I didn't have to bend edges for this pair, but for future projects i have thе tools:

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For this pair, the eges don't go around the entire ski:

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[mattman]

That looks like a fun shape; killer carver. Nice work.

[verticalwhiteout]

Funky tip shape. I like it a lot!

We’re you happy with how they skied?

-JP

[antoxasam]

This is a very unusual feeling when you ride your skis for the first time I like them, although they turned out to be very soft. And their shape is due to the reluctance to bend the edge, but in the future I still plan to strive for edges that go around the ski or snowboard. By the way, now I started to do snowboard.

[chrismp]

Nice first pair! Regarding your camber issues, this is probably due to uneven heating. If you simply set the end temperature, the bottom blanket will usually heat up much quicker compared to the top blanket - the top blanket gets a lot of heat drawn away by the cat track. To compensate for this, you could raise the temperature step by step in around 5-10°C increments to give the top heat blanket a chance to catch up with the bottom blanket.

[antoxasam]

Thank you, Chrismp. Your advice helped me. The last snowboard I made, I glued at 60(C) degrees at the top and 55(C) degrees at the bottom. The thermometr probe was placed in the cattrack and I maintained the temperature at 59 degrees. No camber issues! 3 mm camber on mold and 3 mm camber on my board. Thank you!

[antoxasam]

Hello. This is my first snowboard. Its shape was inspired by Jones Storm Wolf and Jones Storm Chaser.

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Fitting edges to a base of this shape was a very difficult task. In places of the greatest bends? it was necessary to cut out the teeth at the edge. In the end, it didnt't work out perfectly. The gaps between the base and the edges were present in different places.

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The core is glued from 25 mm strips of ash and aspen. The thickness of the core is 9 mm, because as inserts, I used furniture nuts? the height of which is also 9 mm. I broke off the antennae of the nuts with pliers. Photo from the Internet.

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[antoxasam]

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I have not found nuts less than 9 mm high. As a result, a large number of strips of ash 9 mm thick led to a very high rigidity of the core. But I didn't know that at the time The sidewall is made of liquid plastic with the addition of a dye. I used American walnut veneer for the topsheet.
And here is the final result.

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[antoxasam]

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So, the characteristics of the snowboard:
Length 156 cm
Nose-Waist-Tail Width: 305-265-285
Sidecut Radius: Approximately 6-6.5m
Camber 3 mm
Contact length: 105cm
Effective length: 117 cm
Nose length: 35 cm
Tail length: 16 cm
Nose height: 8 cm
Tail Height: 3cm
The rocker in the nose begins almost immediately after the inserts and its length is approximately 35 cm.
This snowboard was conceived as an agile forest powder board with a small radius to easily maneuver between trees. But in fact, it turned out to be very hard and clumsy at low and medium speeds. A lot of ash in the core creates high rigidity. But then I began to get carving arcs. If you stand on the edge, then this snowboard confidently brings me up the slope. For comparison, in the last photo is my old snowboard Rome Agent, on it I can hardly drive up the slope in a carving turn. It is much softer than this. But I'm still happy and it gives me joy when riding although it takes a lot of strength because of its rigidity.

[chrismp]

Nice one! Glad it was such a simple fix!

As for the inserts, you can cut them down to the desired thickness using a router with a straight metal burr bit in it. Just profile the core to your desired thickness, place the insert into the hole in the core, set the router bit flush with the surface of the core and trim away the metal that sticks out of the core. Hope this makes sense

[antoxasam]

Chrismp, thank you. I will try this. You give me good advice.

[antoxasam]

Geometry:
Length 158 cm
305-258-292
Sidecut 7.5 m
Camber 4 mm
Rocker in the nose 38 cm long, starts almost immediately from under the front inserts
Aspen core + three strips of ash in the middle
Quad-axial fiberglass bottom and top
Weight approx. 2.9 kg
Topsheet sapeli+ash+alder

Hello everyone, another snowboard made in my WoodTony workshop. Made it for myself in February of this year. I am very pleased with them. The board floats perfectly in the powder and confidently cuts arcs on the morning velveteen. I rode it in Georgia in February-March, where 50-60 cm of fresh snow in the morning was not uncommon. The board floated everywhere like a submarine.

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[antoxasam]

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[antoxasam]

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