Planer Blades?

[a.badner]

Im not really the master wood worker, and i do require assistance.

How do i tell if my planer blades are dull? its takes extremely long to profile a poplar/pine panel. it can only take off 3mm before getting extreme snipe or just stopping on me. are they dull?

[MontuckyMadman]

UrUr insane for trying to take off that much material in one pass. Depends how wide the panel is but if its 2 6" wide ie almost a foot wide piece of wood, why would u need to take off that much in one pass? 1mm at a time takes 15min for a pair. Ur very impatient. I vote yes. U r dull.

[a.badner]

3mm at a time, with A 4.5'' wide panel of poplar and PINE (happens to be pine for $5.99 so its not good quality)

"ur" dull to make assumptions without knowing details. You have to be the most critical asshole on this entire forum. Furthermore, i said i am no master woodworker. In this great place called Canada, this means that i am fairly new to something and asking for help without mockery.

you have to be one of the most loneliest pricks in world to talk like you know everything about everything.

Good day Mr.Einstein.

[MontuckyMadman]

Luv it. Doosh.
did u look at the blade tard?
u can see if its dull.
i think ur shitty planer just cant do it.
go slower, with everything.

[twizzstyle]

3mm is pretty damn deep.

How big is your planer? How much does it bog the motor down when you put the board in? It shouldn't slow the motor down much, if at all - if it is you're going too deep.

I have a 14" Ryobi planer, and 3mm would be WAY too much per pass. I do more like 1mm per pass.

[Richuk]

Lots of master classes available on youtube.

IMO, the starting point is not having 3mm of waste. If this is not possible, then a half turn will be enough per pass. Quarter turn as you approach your target. Then nominal amounts thereafter, so you are removing only 0.1mm. You need to get a feel for your machine.

The finish affects bonding, so you need to keep your blades sharp:

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/utilities/info ... ?info_id=2

Certain woods have a tendency to tear eg. Maple, but a damp cloth will reduce this (ref: SD). If you are tearing up pine, you have a problem.

[carnold]

Hi. 3mm, 1mm, 10mm it all depends. There are heaps of variables here - timber properties, stock width, machine design, cutter grind angle and sharpness, horsepower, etc.
If you run your finger along the entire length of the cutter with average pressure and there is no blood you need a blade change. Also you're dull!
Seriously shine a bright light on the edge of the cutter. If you see a shiny line, even a very thin one, change or hone the cutters. If you can't see the edge then it's sharp.
As you use the thicknesses the noise level will increase as the cutter dulls. After a bit of experience the sound and quality of the surface will be enough for you to be able to tell when to change. C.

[skidesmond]

Signs the blades are dull:
You have to put your foot on the planer and manually pull the wood out the other end.
The shavings look more like they are shredded than tiny chips.
The surface doesn't look uniformly smooth, ie, lines, grooves, duvets means the blades are getting worn.
And the motor should not bog down from a high pitch whine (like mine) to a low dull roar. That's a sign you're taking too much off in 1 pass.

Also 3mm is way too much to take off at a time unless you have a like a 3-5hp motor. I usually go 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time like RichUK.

Sniping is not caused by dull blades: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/unde ... snipe.aspx
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/M ... Snipe.html
There's a good video clip here on how to reduce snipe. I might try it although it takes away from the width of the board you want to plane. But great idea.
http://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html


Hope this helps.

[a.badner]

You have to put your foot on the planer and manually pull the wood out the other end.
The shavings look more like they are shredded than tiny chips.
The surface doesn't look uniformly smooth, ie, lines, grooves, duvets means the blades are getting worn.

my blades are dull. 'nuff said

[twizzstyle]

my blades are dull. 'nuff said

You're still cutting off too much per pass, which will dull your blades quicker. Which planer do you have? Mine uses double-sided blades so when they get dull I just flip it over and get a bunch more use before having to purchase a new set.

[a.badner]

im using the same garbage planer. flipped them today. seem fine now.

and to be honest, i was doing 3mm before winter fine.

[doughboyshredder]

im using the same garbage planer. flipped them today. seem fine now.

and to be honest, i was doing 3mm before winter fine.

With that planer?

Ha ha, I highly doubt it.

I vote ur dull























.....jk
toughen up nancy

[twizzstyle]

and to be honest, i was doing 3mm before winter fine.

Right... and now your blades are dull - because you were cutting too deep. Go a little shallower and they'll last longer (or stay going deep and go through the blades).

[Richuk]

You will get further faster by remaining focused on accuracy and efficiency. It will increase your skill level, which is the thing you are complaining about.

A planner is good enough if it produces a consistent result - you can design your sled around any consistent variation. Your machine is good enough and that all you need - if you can afford to replace it, then continue to feed it rocks.

Have you read Iggyskiers old posts - he asks a series of important questions to get him moving forward in the most efficient way, worth a read.