Ben_mtl,
I'll make a section on my site about making the core blanks sometime in the future. Until then, here are the answers to your questions. I don't have any pictures of this right now, sorry.
1. I use wood that's machined to 2.5" wide, ~7' long, and 3/4" thick. From that I can make 4 slices for two cores. It's much easier to work with a thinner stack, faster to glue up, and most importantly, easier to apply even pressure. I use pipe clamps with 2"x2"x12" cauls, alternating top and bottom along the length of the stack. You don't need a ton of pressure, just even pressure. Your problem is probably your glue drying before you really get pressure applied. I used to have that problem when I used yellow glue. Use polyurethane glue, like Gorilla Glue or similar. It has a much longer working time that normal yellow glues (typically only 5 min). It looks like the Titebond 3 has a 10 min working time, which is good, but I believe the poly glues are even longer. Apply it by taking the cap off the bottle, and pouring a bead directly on a plank, then spread with a spreader just like you're laying up a board. This goes much, much faster than using a brush or even rolling.
The clamps:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208032 ... Clamp.aspx
A few pics here:
http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/Mo ... ipe_Clamps
2. The best surface for gluing wood is the smooth surface fresh from a good thickness planer, jointer, or hand plane. You want the pores of the wood open and clean, so you get good penetration of the glue. If you sand, you'll drive dust down into the pores and clog them, actually yielding a weaker bond.
3. I cut my slices on a band saw. The kerf is smaller, and it's much, much safer. I'd highly recommend that over a table saw, though of course the table saw does have its place. Unfortunately, this can be tricky. Resawing on a bandsaw is a skill that takes practice, and it requires a well setup bandsaw. I'm not going to go into all of that now, detailing that is a whole lot. See my overall note below instead.
4. The VDS getting pushed out is odd, you may be using too much resin, or it may simply be shifting during the rest of your layup. Check carefully as you go. If it really is getting pushed out then use less resin. You don't want pools of the stuff lying about as you put the next layer on. Scrape it all off at each layer.
5. I lay my fiberglass layers out on a separate table covered with plastic wrap. I mix my epoxy, then dump half of it onto the two glass layers and spread it out evenly. Then I get to work on the other parts. When I need a layer of glass, I go grab and lay it onto the laminate. If I've missed a spot I'll touch it up at that point, and move on. I like this because it takes half the epoxy mix and gets it into a thin film as quickly as possible, which slows it down.
If you're making your own cores, you're a woodworker, whether you want to be or not. Welcome to the club
Subscribe to finewoodworking.com, and start reading. Really! How to resaw well, how to setup a bandsaw properly, what blades to use, how to setup a table saw properly and be safe using it, a planer, a jointer, effective clamping, glues and proper glue application, etc. It's all out there, and it's all a well studied problem. I don't have a collection of links for you right now, but I'll make a note of it and start collecting good ones, then add them to the site at some point.
Good luck!!