Hey guys -
I've been making solid wood skis and now want to go to an all wood laminate ski. (perhaps adding a carbon fibre layer in the tip/tail for strength.)
I've been thinking of making a vacuum mold as I don't have room/space for a pneumatic press.
Joewoodworker.com has been a great resource. Only thing I am worried about is getting the lamination's in the tip to get a good bond. I know the benefits and limitations of vacuum molding.
Right now I am thinking of a 3-4mm top laminated to a 3-4mm bottom. (I will also have a wood core) (Like I said I also may put a carbon fibre layer in the tip/tail - and be able to bring the thickness closer to 3mm or even under)
Note that these skis will be more of a backcountry/telemark/cross country ski. (dimensions are 100-70-85) (I will also use the same setup to make varying width cross country skis - again all wood)
I also hope to use the same setup to make a wood alpine ski (topsheet, core, sidewalls with a p-tex base and metal edges)
Anyone with experience vacuum forming - do you think I will have a problem having enough pressure getting the tip tight against the mold and lamination's tight against eachother?
Any advice, or things you have learned would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS!
Paul
I posted photos of my all wood skis in the user gallery of skibuilders
I have more info/photos at my blog - thewoodwright.blogspot.com
Vacuum Forming an all wood ski - advice needed
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I've never vacuum bagged wood, nor have I vacuum bagged skis (we have a pneumatic press) but I've done a LOT of vacuum bagging of fiberglass and carbon fiber parts.
Under full vacuum, thats like using a pneumatic press at around 14psi (atmospheric pressure). It all depends on how thin and flexible your layers are. An easy check is just to bag everything totally dry with no resin. You should easily be able to see if its pulling everything together enough. If it is, you're good to go with the real layup, if its not, you need to make your layers thinner.
Under full vacuum, thats like using a pneumatic press at around 14psi (atmospheric pressure). It all depends on how thin and flexible your layers are. An easy check is just to bag everything totally dry with no resin. You should easily be able to see if its pulling everything together enough. If it is, you're good to go with the real layup, if its not, you need to make your layers thinner.
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- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:42 pm
- Location: Ontario, Canada
I was thinking of using TITEBOND III Waterproof glue - I contacted the manufacturer and the customer service rep didn't think I'd have enough pressure with a vacuum mold (the wood could creep and would not have the strongest bond (not optimal)
If I use epoxy I will add weight + cost, but I imagine it should fill the gap and make a strong bond.
If I use epoxy I will add weight + cost, but I imagine it should fill the gap and make a strong bond.