Ski Builders Forum

Sorry Falls, unsupported base in the middle? Do you mean the photo showing the base warp before the edge went in?

My edge bender is in the background of the first photo (the last set posted) with the little seam roller in the foreground. Fa suggested putting a bit of diluted epoxy on the edge of any mdf mold - toughen up the edge. Never tried it because CNC is more expensive in this neck of the woods.

Yep - I'm not doing anything new with this, just followed the Line video and filled in the gaps. Some of this is QA and if the method reduces the time to clean up once out of the press, some much the better (keeps the ski tech impressed and on-side).

How the hell did you find that little 6 inch model roller! Great find - thks for pointing it out!!!

I had been able to hand bend them over a form - there is a post in the forum somewhere from someone showing this ... can't find it. I am having something made, it looks like an old fashioned lawn roller http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200381567 The guy at GW suggests 0.4mm is the max for bending plate, but wasn't really clear on what the ring roller end could do (used for bending round bar)

Unsupported base: I just meant if you put the edges in first teeth side down then when the base goes in the space between L and R sides will have a 0.65mm gap between your mold and the base material. Probably unimportant. If you put base in first then it would be flat on the mold. I think I'm overthinking it!
That 6" roller I found on google. Grizzly in the US make a similar one.

Yup, Grizzly.
And pretty cheap too!
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/12-Slip-Roll/T23103
Thinking this would make bending tip and tail to fit into mold much easier.
Then maybe I could start doing full wrap edges again.

sam

can you even adjust it to take an edge 22ga? it is super thin.

Fall - Got it now (doh). Yes, the base isn't flat. Routing/rebating a trough for the teeth of the edge set is do-able. I'm not great with a hand held router so I did'n t do it and the purpose of the pre-mold is to attach the edges, so the mold may not be dimensionally correct. It is the right shape. The way the mold comes together its a matter of allowing the parts to determine the distance between the two sides of the mold. So one side is stapled in place with three staples (pushed up against the laser cut mold). The edges (two short straight sections) and base is added. The second side is pressed against and side pressure applied. I use an F-clamp to apply a little pressure - which is why I can't say it is dimensionally correct. Just enough, but not so much that the base buckles. Set the straight edges and then do the tips. Make sense?

The way you suggest doing it would have the advantage of being able to do the carlito weave more easily. If you're not running your edges all the way round the tips - then I would definitely do as you suggest, as there is nothing to worry about, except the length of the edge.

Once I've gotten used to this process, perhaps I will switch it round : )

Sam, maybe there's something left here? http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2568 and I think Twizz was doing something ...

If anyone does take this idea up, then please post - it would be great to confirm these results.

I'm amazed at the accuracy you're achieving! The edges are perfect.

The birdos website has a picture of their little roller bender
http://birdos.com/

Holy crap, Birdos skis are expensive 1600. chf
Thats almost 2000 can$.
or a million usd.

aaaaaaahhhhhhhhhahahahahahahha! Good one! Go watch Terrance and Philip

Great find ... do I, don't I, do I ... nice of him to show this piece of the puzzle

So this is what came back from G W Models. It's is surprisingly accurate given that I gave no dimensions:



If I hadn't come across a piece of pipe and the guys I asked to sort this had the time, it would have been very tempting.

Thks Falls, if I get stuck in the future, I have options!

Now I see the value of mounting the edges the way you do!