Project Pallet with a face lift
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I skied them this past weekend on Sahale:
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1431
The epoxy + fabric is not very durable. I managed to chip and scratch the topsheet a little. I may have to try the PU coating.
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1431
The epoxy + fabric is not very durable. I managed to chip and scratch the topsheet a little. I may have to try the PU coating.
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- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 1:08 am
Thanks Kam,
I guess I could screen print onto some plain material for a graphics layer. Or maybe it might even be possible to screen print onto 200gsm weave.
Ive done hand painted epoxy/pigment before for graphics on a natural base using a mask my brother cut from vinyl. But the price of the vinyl mask soon adds up. A screen print would be much more cost effective.
Thanks,
Jamie
I guess I could screen print onto some plain material for a graphics layer. Or maybe it might even be possible to screen print onto 200gsm weave.
Ive done hand painted epoxy/pigment before for graphics on a natural base using a mask my brother cut from vinyl. But the price of the vinyl mask soon adds up. A screen print would be much more cost effective.
Thanks,
Jamie
just saw this post, haven't logged on in a while. i have found that using a
brush with the pu coatings leaves the streaks that rockaukum was talking
about. home depot sells small dia foam rollers with a blue handle that work really well. three coats followed by wet sanding with really fine
paper, then buffing with compound will produce a really glossy clear
coating. tons of work but looks awesome. spraying would prob eliminate
the polishing, yet to try it.
BK, great post, love the recycling with a new facelift.
brush with the pu coatings leaves the streaks that rockaukum was talking
about. home depot sells small dia foam rollers with a blue handle that work really well. three coats followed by wet sanding with really fine
paper, then buffing with compound will produce a really glossy clear
coating. tons of work but looks awesome. spraying would prob eliminate
the polishing, yet to try it.
BK, great post, love the recycling with a new facelift.
I was in a shop the other day and a friend of mine was showing me some of the new K2 skis and how they are using urethane for the side walls so i checked it out on the K2 website.
"ABS/URETHANE HYBRID SIDEWALLS
This sidewall construction uses a softer durometer urethane for shock absorption which lessens the impact of harsh landing and blows to the rider. The Urethane is used under foot to absorb impact loads while ABS is used towards the tip and tail to maximize performance and control."
some of the skis have a "clear" side wall that is just urethane...
if it bonds well, and is durable enough for the side walls couldn't you put a bunch of coats on the ski after it was pressed and use it instead of a topsheet?
i worked for a guy installing and refinishing wood floors and he had a mop bucket that he used for years and the urethane coats on it built up more than 2 inches thick before he finally removed it.
"ABS/URETHANE HYBRID SIDEWALLS
This sidewall construction uses a softer durometer urethane for shock absorption which lessens the impact of harsh landing and blows to the rider. The Urethane is used under foot to absorb impact loads while ABS is used towards the tip and tail to maximize performance and control."
some of the skis have a "clear" side wall that is just urethane...
if it bonds well, and is durable enough for the side walls couldn't you put a bunch of coats on the ski after it was pressed and use it instead of a topsheet?
i worked for a guy installing and refinishing wood floors and he had a mop bucket that he used for years and the urethane coats on it built up more than 2 inches thick before he finally removed it.
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do you mean trying to "flood" the sidewalls in during lamination?
good luck doing that while epoxy is trying to escape
I think those who have done eurethane sidewalls have "casted" them in a molding fashion of sorts right onto the core, prior to profiling the core
you could also just make channels in something and cast them seperately, then add the solid eurethane sidewall during layup, or attach to core with glue/staples.
But I dont think you'd be able to do it DURING or AFTER pressing a board.
good luck doing that while epoxy is trying to escape
I think those who have done eurethane sidewalls have "casted" them in a molding fashion of sorts right onto the core, prior to profiling the core
you could also just make channels in something and cast them seperately, then add the solid eurethane sidewall during layup, or attach to core with glue/staples.
But I dont think you'd be able to do it DURING or AFTER pressing a board.
Doug
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that too 
= "slimewalls"
I had a dream about using urethane...and it chipping and breaking down,
Ever notice how skateboard wheels get little holes and chips in them?
That's the only issue I think I could forsee happening, is that impacts could chip and cut it.
After reading some pretty interesting stuff i wont mention here...
I think I want to try to build a snowboard that BLEEDS if you cut or damage it,
.

= "slimewalls"
I had a dream about using urethane...and it chipping and breaking down,
Ever notice how skateboard wheels get little holes and chips in them?
That's the only issue I think I could forsee happening, is that impacts could chip and cut it.
After reading some pretty interesting stuff i wont mention here...
I think I want to try to build a snowboard that BLEEDS if you cut or damage it,

Doug