I am going to try to adjust my core profiler to use it vertically as well.
Then I should be able to use the core profiler for creating the ski contour too...
But at first I will test how it works as a core profiler
Make things as simple as possible, but not too simple
Easy wrote:@Alexisg1: Yes it is easier to build than buuk's profiler, but it does not have the same adjustability.
Yep that's for sure, but it is still possible to change the locations and height of the "inserts" between the two planks.
@dbtahoe: when I was shaping my core on a table router, I used double-sided tape to stick the template onto the core, and it sticked very well...actually it sticked so well that you had to be very carful when taking the core out. Normally the profiler press the core onto the crib, and buuk seemed to say that just gluing sanding paper on the crib was sufficient to insure that the core does not move.
What is this type of planer called in French and German.
In the UK its called a thicknesser.
I am trying to buy one in europe but not knowing what they are called it's a little hard to search.
They are ether expensive £350 ($700) or ebay with no real details or junk - I looked at a fox brand one for £200 ($400) yesterday, it didn't even have feed rollers!
in german it`s called "dickenhobel" as far as i know. or "abrichthobel".
i`ve been searching for such a tool quite long too - without success. the only one that comes close to what other folks here are using was on ebay, 100.- ...so probabely cheap crap.
all the others are pretty professional - and so are the prices.
Idris wrote:What is this type of planer called in French and German.
In french it's called a "raboteuse". If it says also "dégauchisseuse", it means that it can work both on the top or on the bottom of the plank (i hope my english is not too bad here...)
ebay link : http://search.ebay.fr/search/search.dll ... category0=
Now some pics of my ccore profiler that has just been finished this afternoon (except the damn spacers...). The snow is coming, we have to hurry
problems I had :
- don't try to put metal inserts in that crappy wood you see, they don't fix ! had to unscrew/unglue everything to change this pieces of wood for mdf.
- Be really precise with the holes you make, and pre-drill them with a drill press.
This is how I am going to handle my spacers. I mentioned it earlier in the post and either everyone thought I was nuts or I didn't explain it well.
When I get to the point that you are at, I'm going to throw it back on the saw and cut a 1/4" deep by 2" wide groove along the top outside of the bottom plank.
Then I can cut a 1/4" by 2" strip of wood and attach the left side of my sized wooden spacers to the top of it creating a template (comb) for my profile that can be replaced with a different profile comb by simply sliding the one out and the other one in.
well I'm not sure I understand what you want to do actually
On the pictures I posted, there is no spacers, and the profiler is actually upside down (you can see it as the top plank is thicker than the lower one...but actually the lower one ie the one that bend !)
Easy wrote:@Alexisg1: Yes it is easier to build than buuk's profiler, but it does not have the same adjustability.
Yep that's for sure, but it is still possible to change the locations and height of the "inserts" between the two planks.
Hey fellas,
The jig is adjustable for length of taper by moving the row of screws (right side in photo) that hold the two mdf planks together and and depth of taper by swapping spacers of different thicknesses.
For holding the core in place, I used a couple of screws countersunk in the extra length of core at the front end of the jig. The extra length is a good idea when using a planer in any case to deal with chip-out and snipe. This method is very simple and effective but most likely a little problematic if you were to build a double ended jig.
The one issue with this set-up that I've yet to come up with an elegant solution for, is the core bridging over the dip (where the mdf planks are screwed together) causing the taper to run long when it needs to be shorter than a certain length.
Otherwise, it's simple to adjust, quick to use, and produces a constant taper with nice smooth transitions at the ends.
I've used buuks design and made an excel sheet to calculate automatically the height of the spacers according to the thickness and length of the different parts of the core. It really saves time and pain...
the core profiler with the spacers fro my shape.
a top layer to protect the profiler from the screws... and the core (the wood layer and the core are fixed with double-sided tape).
eaten by the machine !
Tadaaaaaam ! (the font part of the core after being profiled)
thx, and thx buuk, only the ergonomy has be upgraded...
One more thing : I'm really surprised how precise it is, with only 16 "plots". I guess buuk with his 49 plots will have a incredibly precise machine !
Only thing you have to be careful with : the tail of the core(or the last part entering the machine) has to be fixed strongly as the machine is pretty violent
@mark: yeah it's a woodworker association and we have access to pretty much everything