Hello everyone,
if there any guys doing powder boards or skis with no edges on the tip and tail?
I tried to make a few snowboards with small fish tail but was not sure about making tail with no edges after effective zone.
I am not sure that it will be possible to follow the curve of the snowboard contour on the place that do not have the edge since nothing will hold blade if something goes wrong.
What methods do you use to cut flesh on boards and skis with no continuous edge?
Here is picture how I do it for now, but I would like to make deeper tail.
chrismp wrote:
Is that base graphic sublimated? Looks really sharp!
Yes, this is sublimation.
Basically it very depend on the graphic you make and color of inks. Some colors look more straight than the other. Thin lines (less than 2 mm) are the biggest problem.
Here are some pics of very small objects.
Closer look
I just use a jigsaw with the ski base side up and follow close to the edge of the base without touching it. Not hard after some practice. Then as the others said using a belt or drum sander to clean it up back to the base material. I use a drum covered in sandpaper that mounts in a drill press. With a deep swallow tail you would need to use something like that (drill press drum, bobbin sander or a sanding drum mounted to a dremel maybe) as a long belt sander or hand held belt sander would be hard to get right up into the deepest part of the swallow tail.
I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillatin ... dle-sander
I use a jigsaw blade for metal, they cut the fibreglass better.
I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway) http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sa ... nt-sleeves Rockler.
I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 01&p=20200
I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.
rnordell wrote:I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillatin ... dle-sander
That is awesome device, newer seen it before. Once I saw something similar, but way bigger on NS factory tour. It works the same way up and down. It really saves sandpaper.
If it were possible to add some kind of emulsion, it would be great!
falls wrote:
I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway) http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sa ... nt-sleeves Rockler.
I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 01&p=20200
Great setup!Newer seen it. Sometimes I use drum sander for fishtails, it can be set up on the same device I use for cutting edges.
kit wrote:I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.
I use blades for metal as Falls does, but they lasts way to quick. One blade is enough for one board. I also figured out that lifetime of blades depend upon sidewall material. The worst thing is ABS. It melts really fast and plastic stuck in between blade teeth and it makes really hard to cut flash. UHMWPE is much better in this regard. I do not know how urethane will show itself.
