Wood veneer

[Gilo]

Hi Motoman

this is the peel ply that I use http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/vacu ... l-ply.html

I think it is probably industry standard stuff - it leaves a slightly raised texture that can be sanded out before applying any finishing coats.

"Caul" is a funny old fashioned english word and in its truest definition is the word used to describe the membrane around a foetus or the layer of fat around your kidneys. In this case it means "smooth non permeable membrane". Needless to say it is not in common usage!

Good luck with your experiments

Gilo

[vinman]

The method I use is to skim coat the veneer top during layup. I use parchment paper as mold release. This leave a smooth matte, slightly textured finish to the top. You need to use spray adhesive to hold the parchment in place on your cassette or you'll get wrinkles in the tip and tail. If you spray adhesive the parchment in place it prevents it from slumping into the top and tail curves.

After pressing you could leave the matte finish or coat with spar varnish, or coat with something like entropy resins CLR. i have seen some cracks in the top areas in the clear coat if you put it on too thick.

I've debated varnish vs clear epox and I have stuck with the clear epoxy for the added top sheet protection and durability. If I were worried about weight I might go with a clear acrylic or clear varnish.

I would switch to something that could be sprayed on it it provided a nice finish and durability. I have a hard time finding such a product.

[motoman]

Thank you Gilo for a great advice.
a few weeks ago did an experiment following this method. The result is fantastic. Looks expansive. Yes, there are some textures from peel ply but still it looks good. Here is the pic.



Dear vinman,
I would also try to use parchment paper.
I will post pics as soon as the result will be ready.

[Brazen]

[motoman]

Hey guys,
recently did a board using plastic topsheet over veneer. Generally the result is good, but I have got many tiny voids




I guess it might be reason in not enough pressure, not sanded veneer prior to layup or too thin epoxy.
Could you advice something?

Those voids have longitudinal character, along the veneer fibers.

Thank you in advance.

[amidnightproject]

Motoman

That right there is one of the problems using topsheet directly over veneer. You have to sand the veneer incredibly smooth, and take super care to not trap ANY air between the two surfaces when you do your layup.

However, There is still the risk that air will travel up through the veneer from the lower surfaces. Air gets trapped in the composite fibers unless you are using a prepreg or have a very thorough process for saturating the fibers with epoxy.

I'd recommend getting a very lightweight veil glass. No more then 4oz to use between the veneer and the topsheet. This will not only give you strength in bonding those two surfaces, but almost eliminate those pesky air bubbles

[motoman]

bubbles

So, the thing to do is to use fine-grained sandpaper and work both surfaces of the veneer.
But what about 4 oz glass. Will it still give bright picture of veneer through it?

Thank you for fruitful advice, I appreciate it

[amidnightproject]

bubbles

So, the thing to do is to use fine-grained sandpaper and work both surfaces of the veneer.
But what about 4 oz glass. Will it still give bright picture of veneer through it?

Thank you for fruitful advice, I appreciate it

Yep, You need to think smooth. Like, babies bottom smooth. Start with 400>600>800 etc. You need to eliminate any channels that air can get stuck in.

A veil weight glass, if it's a nice uniform pattern and thoroughly wet out will be almost 100% transparent. It won't really take too much away from the wood grain. Give it a go on a sample piece before you do a full ski though. You might not be happy with the result.

[motoman]

You might not be happy with the result.

I guess that even just sanding will improve existing result. Anyway it going to be better))

Thank you for fruitful advice!!