You can buy it here: http://www.luthiersfriend.com/robosande ... html#robo3
I think the $27 RS-2300 model with 2" diameter and 3" height would work best.
Splitboard inside edge grinding
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I think most of the splitboard production companies are using pocketed base sheets, where the base/edge is recessed into the aluminum base sheet with a router. When the base material expands under heat in the press, it swells to fit the pocket and takes the perfect shape. In my experience, this base swelling without a pocketed tool is more of an issue with splitboards than skis/solid boards because the non-symetrical sidecut expands unevenly, and tolerances for a tight board fit are so fine.
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stormyclouds
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2012 1:24 pm
Splitboard inside edge grinding
Ok I think I have a good idea for this task.
http://wholesalepowertools.com/freud-10 ... 3vXa2BUMqY
Put one of these in your table saw with sandpaper attached. Make a plywood jig with hold down clamps and just barely hang the center edge over the jig edge so the sanding disc grinds a perfectly straight line. You can adjust how much material is being removed by moving the table saw fence.
I have not used this method but it is something I cam up with while lying in bed this morning. Does this make sense?
http://wholesalepowertools.com/freud-10 ... 3vXa2BUMqY
Put one of these in your table saw with sandpaper attached. Make a plywood jig with hold down clamps and just barely hang the center edge over the jig edge so the sanding disc grinds a perfectly straight line. You can adjust how much material is being removed by moving the table saw fence.
I have not used this method but it is something I cam up with while lying in bed this morning. Does this make sense?
"the perfect seam"
So far I have had overall good results but the odd glitch.
What ever you method is just do it well and solidly. Don't leave any movement in the cassette to chance.
At the moment I can't say I've noticed any difference in the expansion due to the asymetric nature of a splitboard half, there probably is a difference but in practice its not been noticable for me. My biggest concern is the overall accurate registration of the core over the base/edges to ensure perfect insert and sidewall alignment, which I am dealing with like others using peg/dowel method.
My next splitboards I am pressing with the bases doweled to the cores as above, and then the overall laminate stack registered to the steel sheets using M2mm countersink nylon machine screws , fron under the casette, screwed through into the wood core into holes cnc'd into the core during profiling. I press the splitboard as one and run the saw through during flash cutting. So this will get me everything as best registered and aligned as possible incl accurate to the press profiles as I align my steel sheet marks to the press.
all good in theory but the test will be in the doing!!!!!
What ever you method is just do it well and solidly. Don't leave any movement in the cassette to chance.
At the moment I can't say I've noticed any difference in the expansion due to the asymetric nature of a splitboard half, there probably is a difference but in practice its not been noticable for me. My biggest concern is the overall accurate registration of the core over the base/edges to ensure perfect insert and sidewall alignment, which I am dealing with like others using peg/dowel method.
My next splitboards I am pressing with the bases doweled to the cores as above, and then the overall laminate stack registered to the steel sheets using M2mm countersink nylon machine screws , fron under the casette, screwed through into the wood core into holes cnc'd into the core during profiling. I press the splitboard as one and run the saw through during flash cutting. So this will get me everything as best registered and aligned as possible incl accurate to the press profiles as I align my steel sheet marks to the press.
all good in theory but the test will be in the doing!!!!!
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Btw did use a big carpenters belt sander with true frame some time ago. Works pretty well to get things straight.
I think a similar setup with belt sender should be good.
Something like that:
Belt sender mounted 90 degrees (side)
front and rear long guide rails
skateboardwheels with arm & tension spring to put the board down (optional)
Mounting the sander like that, i think the angled idea is not bad to keep the edges cool(er) and the belt will last longer. Left and right there should be the guiding rails
More cooling could be possible with compressed air ... water is no option here with that type of machine
I think a similar setup with belt sender should be good.
Something like that:
Belt sender mounted 90 degrees (side)
front and rear long guide rails
skateboardwheels with arm & tension spring to put the board down (optional)
Mounting the sander like that, i think the angled idea is not bad to keep the edges cool(er) and the belt will last longer. Left and right there should be the guiding rails
More cooling could be possible with compressed air ... water is no option here with that type of machine
Last edited by mammuth on Sat Jul 30, 2016 6:39 am, edited 5 times in total.
Tom
LOL ... did build my press last winter in part of the house which should be later a home office. Promised to put it out as soon as possible to continue finishing the room. Man, im scared when the day comes to do thatDtrain wrote:Me neither. Bought a new house. Moved everything. Press is in pieces. Basement looks like a lumber store. I'm not sure if I like making skis/snowboards or if it's just an excuse to hoard wood! It's seriously getting
ridiculous.⛷🏂
Tom