sidewall and planing to profile
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- Posts: 2207
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
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- Posts: 2207
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
my testing yielded the best results with polyurethane glue...it really depends on your planer and proper set up if you're able to plane with sidewalls on. i used to have access to a large industrial planer, but the beast would chew our sidewalls up every single time. it was even hard to hold the core down to the crib.
now i use a small portable delta 22-560 planer and it works like a charm, even with sidewalls on. i don't even need glue or tape to hold the core down. a couple drops of hotglue along the sides to keep it from sliding on the crib do the trick.
now i use a small portable delta 22-560 planer and it works like a charm, even with sidewalls on. i don't even need glue or tape to hold the core down. a couple drops of hotglue along the sides to keep it from sliding on the crib do the trick.
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- Posts: 72
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 1:18 pm
- Location: White Mts, NH
I tried adapting the "moat method" (described in the how-to for epoxy sidewalls) to ABS as a way of having an all wood core with a full ABS sidewall. I also hoped this would allow me to use square core pieces during lay-up. It went great through profiling (with a planer), but when I tried pressing the core into a mold, the ABS separated from the wood, though only at the tips and only along the outside edge of the ABS -- between the ABS and the excess core material. Not a problem so long as you trust it all to re-seat itself once pushed all the way into the mold, but that seems a little risky....also not a problem if you're going to cut the core pieces to shape before lay-up. The areas where the bond failed, would all be cut away. I should add that the ABS was only prepared for bonding on one side, which I put to the inside. So, it might not have failed at all if both sides of the ABS were prepped.
I'm going to try leaving a very thin floor to the moat on the flat (base) side of the core to better hold everything in place. That means there'll be a thin layer of core material between the ABS and the edges after trimming, but I'm hoping it'll be thin enough to saturate with epoxy during the pressing and, once cured, be impermeable to moisture.
I'm going to try leaving a very thin floor to the moat on the flat (base) side of the core to better hold everything in place. That means there'll be a thin layer of core material between the ABS and the edges after trimming, but I'm hoping it'll be thin enough to saturate with epoxy during the pressing and, once cured, be impermeable to moisture.
The process for bond PE appears to be sand with an 80 grit (generally speaking), flame treat and bond. If base material is micro-sanded, why 80 grit? I'm assuming the type of grit on the paper matters too - you don't just want groves to increase surface area, but little tears too?
Also, once the PE sidewall has been attached, has anyone tried shaped the tip to an arrow point before attaching it to the sled?
Hopefully my planner will behave well, as this appears to be a large part of the puzzle : )
Also, once the PE sidewall has been attached, has anyone tried shaped the tip to an arrow point before attaching it to the sled?
Hopefully my planner will behave well, as this appears to be a large part of the puzzle : )
Good sharp blades and a properly aligned indeed table help a lot.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
I have never been so frustrated on trying to keep the sidewalls on during planing. I have tried every glue, sanded and flame treated. Even went and used a friends planer that had brand new blades on it, since mine did not seem to work either. I can plane the wood cores just fine. Isn't there a company that will attach and plane the sidewalls if I had the cores ready?
thanks for your help.
thanks for your help.
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