Edging poll

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 3:57 pm

I will tell you how, I was hoping this was coming up.
I get the edge fit tight and just press down slightly in the middle of the base and the very edge of the base and edge separate and I lay down a thin bead and get my face close and blow it in the crack, hold the edge close and clamp, Move on to the next.

Brazen · Post by **Brazen** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 3:59 pm

Wow. I think my way is probably less, uh, you know...intimate

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 4:22 pm

MontuckyMadman wrote: get my face close and blow it in the crack

hehe

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 4:22 pm

Got another pair I'm starting in a week or so. I'll give it a try.

COsurfer · Post by **COsurfer** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:00 pm

Great post! I have been doing it tines above the base and I do have some edge alignment issues. I use a very "watery" CA glue I bought from a tool shop. If I flipped to use base up, tines down I bet the glue would seep in and hold. I will give it a try on my next layup.

Brazen · Post by **Brazen** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:04 pm

So...again, just in case I didn't say what I meant. Pony clamp every inch, running side up. Flip base over. Glue tines. When you flip the base over, the clamps lean the edge onto the base for a tight bond with the edge exactly where it should be.

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:13 pm

After i did my blow and crack i flipped it over and did every third tine for full reinforcement but yeah brazen i bet that works also, makes sense now.

knightsofnii · Post by **knightsofnii** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:28 pm

when working on the edge bend and getting it as exact to the tip bends as possible... i have edge underneath the base... I'll lift base up, squeeze it with my edge tool, or open it where needed, till its as perfect as possible... super pain in the butt even when i have already done 80 percent of the pre bend work prior.

Then when both edges are satisfactory on both tip and tail, i clamp edge to base with two clamps somwehre near the middle of board... and flip whole thing over... use about 50 clamps.. and do the whole thing with edge tines over top of base.

I've tried it upside down, and its nice to see how close or far away you are, but from my experience I ended up with lumps and also the edge stuck to my work table... then i'd have to sand that crap away.

ideal is to have the edge bent so well that you can hold it in place with two fingers, one @ the corner and one at the tip, then let go, if it springs out then when you smack something with the tip the edge is going to want to pull out. If it springs in then you risk having gaps near the corner when you glue it on... over time I've learned to draw the line when it feels "good enough" because you can easily spend an hour trying to get it right. Plus if you get it bent near exact, you need far less glue.

Also if you offset the seam where the two edges meet by a couple cm left or right, so its not @ the center of the tip, this will protect that seam from impact.

Brazen · Post by **Brazen** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:33 pm

What is an "edge tool"? And why would you fit the edge only to let it loose and redo it? Just askin'...that makes like zero sense to me. And how does the edge get stuck to the table...I am soo lost.

knightsofnii · Post by **knightsofnii** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:46 pm

When I've tried glueing it "upside down", the edge tines are in contact with table... when i put drop on edge then let base down over it and lined it all up, glue squeezes a pinch and bonds edge to table sometimes.

I first prebend my edges in bulk with a slip roll. I spend about 5 minutes on an edge to get them close, then i put them all away.

When I go to put edge on base, I line it all up as close as possible, then clamp in middle... and work the tips with the hand tool i built, with the base on top of the edges. Its already pre bent but it still needs work at this point, so i work around the tips until the edge matches the base. Then I Take a couple clamps and clamp the edge to the base @ the center of the board so it stays put while i flip the whole thing over... then clamp it all and glue.

Long story short: I bend/fit edge to base upside down, flip it, glue it.

knightsofnii · Post by **knightsofnii** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:49 pm

how are you able to clamp your edge to base every inch, and then flip all of that over? I'd love to know cuz that would be huge if i could pull it off.

Brazen · Post by **Brazen** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:55 pm

Ahhhh I see, you're trying to glue from the base side. No wonder, that shit wicks like crazy. I started to make an "I'll take blah blah for a hundred Alex" joke...but I won't. I just have those little silver clamps from McMaster C, they are STRONG as fk. If you set your edge to align perfectly to the eye, and clamp it every 1 inch, you can just pick the assembly up as a whole and turn it over to glue it. Works for me, anyway...but I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed

falls · Post by **falls** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:56 pm

The only thing I don't get doing it so you can see the fit is that you can't clamp the ptex/edges to the template at you go (?), unless you are applying the glue to the edge then pushing it against the base and clamping it down. This leaves you open to bendy ptex problems, right?

Brazen · Post by **Brazen** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:59 pm

Well, I don't use a template. You got me there. But just try it this way...it seriously works for me very well.

OAC · Post by **OAC** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 6:02 am

This is almost ridiculous simple! With a "double" template (like mine) there is no need for almost no clamps! :-)
(It's an easy profile though...)

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Edging poll

Which way do you edge?