Router bits

[Sherpa Burns]

What are you guys finding works best routing out base material? I have been using a 3/8" flush trim router bit with the bearing on the bottom. Trouble is, it's leaving considerable flash along the edge of the base. It is getting annoying having to trim the flash off.
Maybe not the bit? Maybe need to increase router speed? Bit is too dull?

[skidesmond]

The bit is probably too dull. I had the same problem. If the bit is long enough you can use a different part of the bit that perhaps has had less use.

[powderho]

I've had brand new bits leave flashing. I've tried various speeds but nothing seems to make that much of a difference. I have a flush trim bit that has only cut p-tex right now that will still leave some flash. I've just decided that cutting out the p-tex with a router is not the ideal way.

[sammer]

I bought a 1/2" downward spiral flush trim bit from here
No more cleaning up my base material.
Just run the router around the template and done.
A little bit pricey but well worth the money.

sam

[Dr. Delam]

I have always used a straight pattern bit with no problems. As long as it is sharp and I keep the router moving very quickly I get super clean cuts ready for edges.

[WhitePine]

Which bit do you guys prefer for profiling a core with a router bridge? I've seen some of you use a large 2 flute straight bit and other use a bowl & tray bit. Which works best?

Sorry if I'm derailing the thread but I figured since it's called "Router Bits" I was ok.

[sammer]

I've been using a straight 1/2" shank 1 1/2" diameter double flute bit for profiling.
Shallow cuts from end to end. Going side to side leaves little steps.

Goes pretty fast.

sam

[Brazen]

you guys need to check out de-burring knives. problem solved.

[Mongo]

Get a cnc'd base template of either Trupan for full vacuum draw or regular MDF with some kind of an air channel grid machined into it to vacuum hold your base and use one of these for fantastic results.

http://www.bamcarbide.com/2fldosh12x14.html

$21.20 for a 2 flute downshear. All the benefits of a spiral without the cost or the lack of performance for thin flush trim work.

BamCarbide also sells fantastic downspiral bits at a great price for those of you using a CNC or the router bridge method for profiling. Super clean surface after milling.

[ru-tang]

Your bits are probably getting dull from cutting lots of things besides wood

I guess I dont post enough on here to allow me to put up a URL. Highlandwoodworking has a pretty good blog, and if you search there, they have a good article on sharpening router bits.

Router bits are such an important investment, almost as big as the router itself.

The other router advice is to go slowly, and make very thin passes, rather than huge thick passes. I do lots of template work, removing lots and lots of material with templates. Making small passes keeps everything under control

The other thing is to make sure you rough out your cut with a bandsaw or jigsaw (if you can) getting close to the line, then making your final pass with the router and template. jigsaw blades are waaay cheaper than router bits

[shopvac]

Sammer - we just bought that same router bit you recommended and it is pretty awesome. I got the 1/4" version to go on our Colt "baby" router. It leaves the base material very smooth. Whiteside router bits are not cheap but worth it.

[sammer]

Shopvac...
yeah they do cut nice,
just watch your fingers when you pick em up
Sure makes a lot of little p-tex curlicues huh.
I bought the #1099 for my router bridge

http://www.woodworkersworld.net/straight_bits.shtml

woodworkersworld has gotten a fair chunk of my money and I'm not complaining.

sam

[falls]

feed rate is the big thing. i seem to get more trouble around the tips where i am going slow. I think keeping the router moving at a good rate with a sharp bit is the key