I stumbled across this homemade thickness sander today:
http://woodgears.ca/sander/thickness.html
Very well documented: http://woodgears.ca/sander/plans/index.html
What do you think, would this work for Ski-/Snowboard-/Kiteboard-Building?
Cheers, Christoph *whohatestherouterbridgemethod*
Thickness Sander
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
works! have a look here: http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... c&start=60
he uses it for profiling cores and sanding the bases with great success!
he uses it for profiling cores and sanding the bases with great success!
Used here too http://www.swellpanik.com/uk/
If the information in this chapter is correct, you may need to adapt your process and hand finish with 300 grit
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgt ... ter_10.pdf
If the information in this chapter is correct, you may need to adapt your process and hand finish with 300 grit
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgt ... ter_10.pdf
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jvangelder
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:41 pm
- Location: Southern NH
Heres another http://www.rockslide.org/drum%20sander.html
Been planning on building one similar to the above myself
Been planning on building one similar to the above myself
jvangelder,Heres another http://www.rockslide.org/drum%20sander.html
Been planning on building one similar to the above myself
nice design
for grindig bases too, a larger diameter drum may be preferable
on the other hand if you plan to use it only for woodwork you might want to keep it slim. a smaller drum will be cheaper to build and takes less sandpaper to be covered with (good cloth abrasives arent cheep at all)
plus, if you deside to add feed in&out rollers, the slimer drum will allow you to place them closer to each other
try to have the table stiff to resist torsion. if you work alone, a long table is very handy
good luck
Last edited by fa on Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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DutchDesigns
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:18 pm
- Location: Canmore AB
Im currently in the process of building a thickness sander! I used the above design as a base and am building something sturdy and adjustable! Ive decided to use as much alluminum and steel to ensure there is no flexing and to ensure accurate work! Ill take some photos of the progress so others may build one
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DutchDesigns
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:18 pm
- Location: Canmore AB
On my fathers thickness sander we were able to take off 1mm of maple per pass! And it was 8inche wide piece! We were using a 60 grit and had the self feed at its slowest and of course had a vac system to clear the dust to stop the paper from getting clogged! He also has this block (not sure what it was) that he ran over the sanding drum before we started to stop it from clogging! Im hoping that Ill be able to take atleast 1/2 mm off each pass
I am using a 36 grit al ox 3M cloth. It turns popalr into hairs rather than into dust and it seems that it ll last for ever. i still like to preshape the cores with a hand planer before sanding to save time. I can get away with 4-5 drum passes after that.
I can't explain why, but i am sure i did notice that papers cut better than clothes. funny...
I can't explain why, but i am sure i did notice that papers cut better than clothes. funny...
looking forward to see it DD!and am building something sturdy and adjustable!
Any idea how I can put the shaft in the pillow block bearing without violence? I bought a stainless chromium steel tube with the the same diameter as the bearings (30mm) but it looks like it does not fit 
As you see I am currently collecting all the material for this project... good progress so far. "Endless" velcro sandpaper seems to be a problem in Europe but i will find a solution.
Regards, Christoph
As you see I am currently collecting all the material for this project... good progress so far. "Endless" velcro sandpaper seems to be a problem in Europe but i will find a solution.
Regards, Christoph
Heating the bearing will damage the bearing seals and liquefy the grease, causing it to run out of the bearing. Virtually all pillow block type bearings are designed for a sliding fit over the shaft, and then use some sort of locking mechanism to tighten the bearing to the shaft. Most of the better pillow blocks use a non-concentric shaft collar that you rotate around on the bearing flange until it's tight on the shaft, then tighten the collar via a set screw. So, if your shaft doesn't relatively easily slip into the bearing bore, your shaft is just simply too large. Even if you could manage to force the shaft into the bearing, you'd likely never be able to get it back off, in the event to you needed to make a repair of some sort. It's best to build your machines so that they can be fine tuned or disassembled easily... because you'll likely be wanting to do that from time to time. Best of luck,
G-man
G-man