Covering base mold
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Covering base mold
Hey, I am just about ready to create my first pair of skis using a vacuum baging system, and I was just wondering what you guys use to cover your molds? Currently, I was debating using a sheet of 0.030" aluminum but I was just wondering if this would still bond with the resin, or if it would allow the skis to come free once the bag is off.
I read on the How To's, that they use masonite board, but I imagine that any epoxy that may leak off the edge of the ski base would bond with this.
Thanks in advance for your insight,
Garret.
I read on the How To's, that they use masonite board, but I imagine that any epoxy that may leak off the edge of the ski base would bond with this.
Thanks in advance for your insight,
Garret.
- MontuckyMadman
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- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
On my "vacuum mold" (first 3 pairs) I had the mold made out of MDF ribs + sheet of 1/4" masonite (slightly carve or humidify the tip parts so they bend easily.
On top of the masonite was a piece of laminate (Formica) glued with contact cement. I went through a few reno shops in town and found one who had a sheet they were not able to sell (too ugly I guess), as I was not that picky I got it for half the price. A 4x8 sheet will do for 3 molds... or you can use the leftovers for the kitchen :p
I put a few coats of mold release wax and NOTHING would stick to that, it even was a problem to secure the bases to the mold !
On top of the masonite was a piece of laminate (Formica) glued with contact cement. I went through a few reno shops in town and found one who had a sheet they were not able to sell (too ugly I guess), as I was not that picky I got it for half the price. A 4x8 sheet will do for 3 molds... or you can use the leftovers for the kitchen :p
I put a few coats of mold release wax and NOTHING would stick to that, it even was a problem to secure the bases to the mold !
A bad day skiing is always better than a good one at work...
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- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
I put a good coating of mold release wax down (we have steel sheet metal) just for extra insurance in case something gets by, but my main protection is parchment paper. It's cheap, epoxy doesn't stick to it, it can take the heat of curing without issue, and it stops any/all epoxy from getting to your mold surface.


I bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" puck board (HDPE) It's been working good.
I've gotten quite a few molds out of it.
Gotta buy another sheet soon.
Epoxy doesn't stick but I do wax it before just in case.
Too much heat will warp it but if you leave it under pressure to cool it keeps its shape.
sam
I've gotten quite a few molds out of it.
Gotta buy another sheet soon.
Epoxy doesn't stick but I do wax it before just in case.
Too much heat will warp it but if you leave it under pressure to cool it keeps its shape.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
I just used parchment paper as well. Spray adhesive on the alu base skin to hold the parchment. Small holes cut in the parchment to allow the alignment blocks to be glued to the ALU. Then another coat of spray adhesive to hold the base onto the parchment. Parchment also covers the top of the laminate and keep it from sticking to the top ALU skin. Just be sure it is nice and smooth at the tip and tail or you'll get wrinkles.
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www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
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