before I layup a test piece, I wanted to check and see if anyone has tried to laminate with this stuff.
I am thinking about using it to hold tip spacer material to the core during layup.
fiberglass tape
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doughboyshredder
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fiberglass tape
Like they use for drywall.
before I layup a test piece, I wanted to check and see if anyone has tried to laminate with this stuff.
I am thinking about using it to hold tip spacer material to the core during layup.
before I layup a test piece, I wanted to check and see if anyone has tried to laminate with this stuff.
I am thinking about using it to hold tip spacer material to the core during layup.
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knightsofnii
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I've used it and it never really stuck well enough to hold stuff down really, but i suppose it depends on how much you're going to use.
Last board i threw three staples in each piece of tip fill, one @ each corner and one at the tip, combined with a few beads of hot glue, or even without, it works just fine. The regular office staples i used are real weak and just get crushed up into all the materials during pressing, thats the theory anyway, cant tell they're there.
Last board i threw three staples in each piece of tip fill, one @ each corner and one at the tip, combined with a few beads of hot glue, or even without, it works just fine. The regular office staples i used are real weak and just get crushed up into all the materials during pressing, thats the theory anyway, cant tell they're there.
Doug
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doughboyshredder
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knightsofnii
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MontuckyMadman
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Wouldn't the adhesive bond between the cloth tape and the core and spacer be a weak point in the matrix? Can the epoxy penetrate into this area?
Plywood used a lightweight glass piece (with epoxy) to attach his tip spacers to his wood cores prior to his final lay up on his rockered skis from a couple of years back. I would think that this technique would work with the drywall fiberglass tape.
viewtopic.php?t=1225
Plywood used a lightweight glass piece (with epoxy) to attach his tip spacers to his wood cores prior to his final lay up on his rockered skis from a couple of years back. I would think that this technique would work with the drywall fiberglass tape.
viewtopic.php?t=1225
doughboy, I don't think that drywall tape is sticky enough to hold the pieces together well.
Still might be worth a try.
I've been using hot glue and it has been working well,
Just thin dabs though or it will leave a bump.
My first couple pairs have these bumps and one pair I glued too close to the edges so you could see it in the sidewall after trimming. (live and learn
)
I've glued them on days before, banged them around in the shop and they still hang on.
sam
Still might be worth a try.
I've been using hot glue and it has been working well,
Just thin dabs though or it will leave a bump.
My first couple pairs have these bumps and one pair I glued too close to the edges so you could see it in the sidewall after trimming. (live and learn
)I've glued them on days before, banged them around in the shop and they still hang on.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
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Head Monkey
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I use small pieces of an art tape that is mostly paper to hold my spacers into place. You can see it in the pic below. This gets pressed into the matrix just fine for me.
However, I passed this along to someone else at one point, and they bought a new roll of the same tape and experienced problems. It seems that the tape they used had some outgassing with the heat of the press, and caused small bubbles in the laminate. I've never had that problem, but my roll of tape is very old.
The moral of the story? Test, test, test.
Good luck!
Mike
However, I passed this along to someone else at one point, and they bought a new roll of the same tape and experienced problems. It seems that the tape they used had some outgassing with the heat of the press, and caused small bubbles in the laminate. I've never had that problem, but my roll of tape is very old.
The moral of the story? Test, test, test.
Good luck!
Mike
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
Longtime lurker (three years now...wow time flies). I guess I feel compelled to contribute, although seemingly insignificant, after all the good information that I've gotten from this forum.
Doughboy - I've used the fiberglass tape that you're asking about to secure the tip/tail spacers to the core for a couple of snowboards that I've made for my sons. It has worked very good for me. My 17 year old son has been beating the heck out of his board (approx. 20 days) with no signs of any delamination.
Doughboy - I've used the fiberglass tape that you're asking about to secure the tip/tail spacers to the core for a couple of snowboards that I've made for my sons. It has worked very good for me. My 17 year old son has been beating the heck out of his board (approx. 20 days) with no signs of any delamination.
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doughboyshredder
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I use good old duct tape top and bottom to hold my tip fill in place. It is just outside the ski and gets trimmed off with the flash. Near perfect core alignment to the base is required, but that's easy to achieve:
It works like a hinge when placing the core into the press. Then when squeezing the sandwich together in the press, the filler pops into place just like in these photos. These are vertically laminated bamboo cores with UHMW sidewall blocks, tapered to 2mm thick at the filler zones.
Cheers,
-S
It works like a hinge when placing the core into the press. Then when squeezing the sandwich together in the press, the filler pops into place just like in these photos. These are vertically laminated bamboo cores with UHMW sidewall blocks, tapered to 2mm thick at the filler zones.
Cheers,
-S