VDS & Edge Recess

cromsos · Post by **cromsos** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 11:23 pm

Ok, I've searched a bit and found some posts about creating a recess or rabbet in the base side of the core to accept the edge tabs. What about the VDS? Seems like this extra material would contribute to concavity, right?

You've already probably guessed that I've not pressed a ski yet. You'd be correct. I hadn't given this issue much thought but am getting closer and getting worried that if I don't create this recess I'll end up with concave base that'll be hard if not impossible to grind flat. I don't think grinding all that edge and base off would be a good idea anyway (would set you back a couple of grinds in the life of the ski from the start).

Anyway, I have some pictures of my progress over two years, yes two years (zero skis). But, I did get engaged and married in that time and had to demo our existing outbuilding (what a shack that was) and construct a new shop from the ground up. I learned how to dig a foundation, pour a slab, and design-build shop to about 0.5 square feet under no-permit limitations in the process. I'm organizing the pics now. At this rate I have no idea when I'll get 'em posted.

So, if anyone can put my fears of a concave base to rest fire away. Recap: planning on using VDS, worried about needing a recess in core. Recess just edge? Sorry if this has been covered and I missed it.

l8r - Chris

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 11:32 pm

Not really a worry you also have a layer of glass in there.

falls · Post by **falls** » Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:46 am

I have read that people suggest a 0.030" rabbet groove. This is 0.75mm right (3/4 of a millimetre)?
Forgive my woodworking ignorance, but how do you achieve this depth? My trim router has a scale in millimetres that I use to adjust depth (it is a trim router), but I don't believe I could get accurately 3/4 of a milimetre depth. Am I missing an obvious fundamental routering technique? Can I just rout a 1mm rabbet groove?
thanks

cromsos · Post by **cromsos** » Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:09 am

Montucky - roger that.

falls - not sure. I searched "recess" or "VDS" + "recess" and found a post showing a nice jig you could set up. seems like you'd just tweak it with small adjustments and test on scraps till you get what you want.

I think I'm going to pass on it this first time.

chris

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:22 am

I eyeball it with a piece of edge material. Test some scrap and lay some edge in there. I have done it with a router by hand but a table is the way to go. Its OK if its a little deep just not shallow.

falls · Post by **falls** » Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:45 pm

ok thanks

KevyWevy · Post by **KevyWevy** » Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:48 am

Yeah, definitely do the recess in the core. as for the depth, just like Montucky was saying we just test on some scrap wood with scrap edges and just make sure the flange is level with the wood by feel. we don't adjust for the vds or glass and my bases have been nice and flat.

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:12 pm

ditto that. I also eye ball the depth using a router and mortise bit used for for cutting a hinge recess on a door. A straight bit will work too. You'll want to have a bearing on the bit to run along a guide to make the cut. Test on a scrap piece first.

falls · Post by **falls** » Thu Nov 19, 2009 5:45 pm

I am thinking of using a rabbet router bit (used for recessing a right angled groove eg for the recess for glass in a picture frame)
Work out the correct depth on scrap.
Then cut my core to the desired shape and run the bearing along the edge of the core and the rabbet should make a nice groove at equal distance from the edge for the whole length.
I just need a bit/bearing combination that will cut in from the edge the correct width of the edge teeth.
This sound OK?

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:28 pm

falls wrote:I am thinking of using a rabbet router bit (used for recessing a right angled groove eg for the recess for glass in a picture frame)
Work out the correct depth on scrap.
Then cut my core to the desired shape and run the bearing along the edge of the core and the rabbet should make a nice groove at equal distance from the edge for the whole length.
I just need a bit/bearing combination that will cut in from the edge the correct width of the edge teeth.
This sound OK?

That will work too. You want to make sure the rabbet bit will cut deep enough toward the center of the core so the metal teeth sit all the way in. I planned on using a rabbet bit on a set of cores but I made the core just a little bit too wide and the bit wouldn't cut far enough into the core.
Instead of re-shaping the core so it wasn't so wide and risk ruining it, I just used a different style bit.

Let us know how it goes.

skimann20 · Post by **skimann20** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 1:09 pm

When you cut the rabbet, do you cut it for the edge and the teeth or just the edge?

Does anyone have a photo of their jig?

This is the onlyone I was able to find:
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... s&start=15

twizzstyle · Post by **twizzstyle** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 4:31 pm

It should be the entire width of the top of the edge extrusion = edge and teeth, plus a bit more for the fiberglass and VDS that fold over the edge teeth. It doesn't hurt anything if it's wider than it needs to be, that small void will just fill with epoxy.

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VDS & Edge Recess

VDS & Edge Recess