My preference has always been to keep the tip-waist-tail consistent and change the radius accordingly. Rocker length I keep proportional to the contact length/core length. This is not the same as proportional to the ski length because I keep tip and tail length constant. This makes sense to me as pr...

It came out great - congrats! Your vacuum setup looks really nice. With the frame open, what is the film that appears to contour over each rib?

There are two main factors for controlling the stiffness of your skis - the core thickness and the amount of 0-degree fibers. I would recommend sticking with industry standard triax fabric and only adjusting the core thickness. This has a much more dramatic effect than changing the fiberglass a coup...

Something to keep in mind when playing with bending stiffness is that slight changes in the thickness of your core has a much more dramatic affect on stiffness than slight changes in the laminates.

First off - welcome! My vote is C. Great excuse for a road trip. Bladders are easy and old material is almost always perfectly fine. Finally, get your hands on the manual for each grinder and do the repairs yourself. You’ll learn a ton about the machines and how to troubleshoot them in the future. T...

I really like chrismp’s sticker idea for masking an area. For a larger or more complex mask, you could screenprint your white.

Dr Delam, what staples do you like?

That looks like a fun shape; killer carver. Nice work.

I can’t tell from the photo, but if the lower ply seems to be compressing less that the upper ply, make sure your core’s rabbet is plenty wide and not too deep. A little extra wide and a little shallow is safe. Also, if you have lower cassette alignment, make sure it isn’t ever higher than your edge.

pmg wrote: ↑Thu Jan 06, 2022 1:32 am I always leave the template at full size and use the router to take the 2mm for the edges away from the base.

I’ve never tried that - very interesting. Just an undersized bearing with a flush cut bit? Do you do 3/4 wrap by carefully locating the ends of your cut?

Yes, undersize your base template accordingly. Also, you will have a step in this shape if you are doing “3/4 wrap”. That is, if you are not fully wrapping the edge around the base.

mammuth thats just what I was thinking. It sounds like he may not have coarse belts. 80grit will knock down the epoxy real fast. It cuts just as easy as UHMW (base) if not easier.

We still ship ski/snowboard materials to Australia and NZ despite the shipping restrictions. The shopping cart shows you rates with a few different carriers and also has a duties estimator for shipments that use DHL or UPS. Let me know if you have any problems- we are doing our best to make sure you...

Correct, I use a jigsaw to cut close (1/32” away maybe”) and use a sander until the belt just starts hitting the base. Tipfill and glass sand slow enough that its very repeatable.

You could trace even just a paper template. We like to cut our base the the exact shape still and just follow the base shape.