I know I read about this and was in the process of doing the router on the core of my sons snowboard when I realized there is somethingelse I did not figure on.
The core is made wider than the base and I was only cutting enough for the edge material. Now when we press, the edges attached to the base are not going to line up because the cord is wider than the base, We will trim the flash after the pressing. What are you guys doing? I see it two ways:
1. Core is exact size to begin with and the router will work, or
2. You router alot more into the core to make sure you cover any edge material and the epoxie and glass will fill the voids if there are any.
Which way is the way to go? Any other ideas?
P.S. we are using a sidewall on the board.
rockaukum
Router for the edge in the base
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
i try to have 1mm to 2mm sidewall overhang over each side of the edges
which works really well.
as for how far in and deep of a relief needed i am still trying to
figure out. i bought some profiled cores and need to profile my "sidesticks" which are maple strips bonded to uhmw so they match the core profiles. pain in the butt, but basically i profiled them slightly thinner than the core to allow for the glass and edge teeth thickness. after i glue the sidetsticks to the core, the relief created was about 6-8mm wider than the edge teeth dimension which ends up being a void that is filled with "less compressed" glass and epoxy, probably not the best solution. the base was still edge
high BEFORE the basegrinds. ????? afterwards they were flat and everythig is fine and looks great. the first board i ever
pressed had no relief for the edge teeth and really was only slightly more edge high if any. i'm wondering if the core is compressing into the
remaining void and still causing the edge high condition by rebounding when the pressure is released???? hope i am explaining this so it all makes sense.
next go around i think i will try making it slightly wider than the edge teeth
for just enough room for the glass to make the bend over the edge, probably about 1-2mm and see if there is a difference. basically to make a long story short i still have no idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but i thought i would share my experiences. hopefully someone will chime in that has already cracked this little nut. stay safe at work.
jason
which works really well.
as for how far in and deep of a relief needed i am still trying to
figure out. i bought some profiled cores and need to profile my "sidesticks" which are maple strips bonded to uhmw so they match the core profiles. pain in the butt, but basically i profiled them slightly thinner than the core to allow for the glass and edge teeth thickness. after i glue the sidetsticks to the core, the relief created was about 6-8mm wider than the edge teeth dimension which ends up being a void that is filled with "less compressed" glass and epoxy, probably not the best solution. the base was still edge
high BEFORE the basegrinds. ????? afterwards they were flat and everythig is fine and looks great. the first board i ever
pressed had no relief for the edge teeth and really was only slightly more edge high if any. i'm wondering if the core is compressing into the
remaining void and still causing the edge high condition by rebounding when the pressure is released???? hope i am explaining this so it all makes sense.
next go around i think i will try making it slightly wider than the edge teeth
for just enough room for the glass to make the bend over the edge, probably about 1-2mm and see if there is a difference. basically to make a long story short i still have no idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but i thought i would share my experiences. hopefully someone will chime in that has already cracked this little nut. stay safe at work.
jason
Rout should be same depth as the edge teeth (phlanges). If you are attaching sidewalls before routing (8-10 mm is standard and allows for slight core shifts with 3-5 mm outside the edges, depending on whether you will bevel the sidewall), size the bit to do both the sidewall and into the core as far as needed. Don't worry about the fiberglass. Profile sidewalls the same as core, attach (hot glue gun works just fine), then rout for best results.
Here's a tip: put a piece of profiled sidewall on the router fence to allow for the sidecut of the ski. You'll get a more even routing over the length of the core.
Here's a tip: put a piece of profiled sidewall on the router fence to allow for the sidecut of the ski. You'll get a more even routing over the length of the core.