Page 2 of 5

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:05 pm
by hugocacola
endre wrote:?
The amount of pressure on the cutting surface depends on the planer, but it very high (never a problem). I have profiled several cores with plastic sidewalls on in the planer.

I got a CNC now though

by the way beansnow, the crib in the picture works the same same way as yours.. (if I understood your description)
I endre

did you got a cnc in your home??

what cad program do you use for profiling??mastercam, deskcnc...???
i want build one but i dont know wich is the best program

can you advise me??

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:56 pm
by endre
If you don't have any money or cad skills you can even use excel. (after all, it's just coordinates and simple codes, I can give you an example some time.) But right now I am writing my own program for the cnc files. I have been using Catia for 5yrs as a student. (got to be the world's best cad program), unfortunately it costs ten times what a normal company will ever afford.

on the other hand, you can just download a crack..

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 3:14 am
by alexisg1
hello,

I am pretty much interested in that system in order to profile my future cores. I had so many problems with the router and sidewalls ungluing (?), that I don't wanna hear about it anymore.

My question is (endre) : is your system ajustable ? I mean, is it possible to shape cores with different cambre ?

Of course it is possible to control the thickness thanks to the profiler, but is the crib (?) adjustable ?

thanks a lot !

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 5:55 am
by mark
beansnow wrote: I think the blade hitting [the] flat front of the plastic sidewall put too much stress on it.
Have you tried tappering the front corners down with a belt sander or something of that ilk?

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:35 am
by brodo
I have made a profiler inspired by Endre that is fully adjustable. Made one where I could adjust the profile by adjusting bolts lifting some cross bars that have worked fine. However due to the hazel of adjusting all of the screws accurately I have now made one where I adjust the height by inserting thin sheets of plastic allowing me to obtain an accurate height. Just tried this version on one par of cores so far but for these it worked just perfect.

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:28 am
by alexisg1
brodo wrote:I have made a profiler inspired by Endre that is fully adjustable.
Great, thx for the answer. Do you have any picture of it ?

I was thinking doing things this way (just an idea, nothing scientific ;) ) :

Image

But actually the idea of adjusting the different height by inserting plastic sheet instead of using kind of bolts alos attracted me. It'd be wonderful if you could tell me more about your system :idea:

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 1:43 pm
by brodo
I don't have any pictures her right now but i will try to post some in a couple of days. For now I only have some pictures of the old one:

http://picasaweb.google.se/ThorHenrik.B ... 7186265234

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:16 pm
by MartinJern
what brand is that planer that u using, it looks like a "clas olsson". is it good? Im thinking of buying one.

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:19 pm
by dbtahoe
I really like where this is going. I'm getting close to building a profiler and I've always thought this was the best option. I look forward to seeing an example with the spacers.

Cheers!

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:06 pm
by plywood
i wish i had such a planer, then i could build myself a profiling construction as you did. but these things are barely aviable for me. anyone a good idea how to build something similar with a handplaner? the problem is that my handplaner just can handle 80mm of widt... so i had to build a similar construction as with a router. tricky thing!

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:08 am
by brodo
what brand is that planer that u using, it looks like a "clas olsson". is it good?
It is a Clas Olsson planer and it's working fine. Not the most powerful planer but no problems with it so far. A more powerful and expensive planer would however most probably make the profiling even faster, smoother and more exact, if you have the money.

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 7:47 am
by dbtahoe
How about the above drawing but like brodo says have a set of differenct thickness planed spacers that you could drop into the different locations to create the shape of the crib. Once you dial in the shape you want, attach the spacers together accross the length of the crib creating a comb-like jig for that particular core shape.

You could use a combination of spacers and draw-down bolts.

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:14 pm
by Buuk
Today I started to build a planer jig. But about the profiling itself. I was wondering if you profile your core before or after applying the contour to it? And why?

Thanks, Buuk

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 11:08 pm
by alexisg1
my guess :

- if you use sidewalls, then you obviously have to apply the contour first, glue the sidewalls and then profile the core (otherwise sidewalls won't glue on 2mm thick core for example)

- I wouldn't use a jigsaw to apply the contour around the pin and tails if they are just 2mm...i'd be to afraid to loose my work :?

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 11:26 pm
by Buuk
- if you use sidewalls, then you obviously have to apply the contour first, glue the sidewalls and then profile the core (otherwise sidewalls won't glue on 2mm thick core for example)

- I wouldn't use a jigsaw to apply the contour around the pin and tails if they are just 2mm...i'd be to afraid to loose my work
That was also what I was thinking and why I was asking this question.

But doesn't a planer break out parts at the tip and tail of the core when planing it a 2 mm?

Buuk