Section8-titanal

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skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

I pressed the ski, did all the finish work on it, base grind, edge sharpening, wax, etc. I put the titanal on the top layer. I split the titanal in half. The titanal did extend over the bindings area. There was no problem trimming the titanal. The ski is not overly stiff. A single full sheet would have been ok IMO. The flex felt a bit soft since I did not use any carbon. The flex felt similar to my Fischer RC4.

I’ll use a binding with a plate. I think it should initiate turns well.

Cadman- yes I agree that layups are tically done so that the same materials are used above and below the core. But I found many higher end skis and snowboards will add a single layer of metal, usually on the top. I haven’t noticed any loss of camber or other abnormalities.

Btw I used flax instead of Fg. So this could be the first Flax/titanal Ski.
artski
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Post by artski »

So did you get the kind of improved grip on firm snow or race course ice that you were looking for?
I'm getting ready to do a beer league racer and would like some insight on using one layer or if I should use two, and you talked about shaving down your core to maybe 10 to accommodate the layers of titanal. Was that necessary? Or do you think the core was ok at your normal thickness?
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

I measured the core and it’s 10mm under foot. I raced on it last week in our beer league and it was good. Conditions were typical frozen granular with a hard base underneath. It held excellent! I was really happy with it. They engaged turns smoothly and good grip in the turn.

It’s fun to free ski on too. It’s a bit soft but not overly so. I think a second layer would be perfect.

Here’s the final specs :

180cm, 114-68-100 16.5m radius

Sintered base
Edges
Vds over edges
Cork between edges
Flax
Wood core
Titanal 2.75in wide, full length of ski, vds on both sides of titanal.
Flax
Makore veneer
Ipe sidewall.

I put a 1degree bevel on the base edge and 3 degree bevel on the side edge. Beveled the sidewall to 10 degrees.

Entropy resin used

So is it better than my Atomic Redster? Reluctantly no but it so damn close. The Atomic is 184cm heavier and feels a little damper. But given the materials I’m using, making it more eco friendly, it’s a winner!
artski
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Post by artski »

Well thanks! That's what I was wanting to hear. I'm going about it a little different but that gives me a good place to start.[/list]
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

Keep us posted on your build. I’d be interested in seeing how it comes out.
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vinman
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Post by vinman »

Love it Steve!! I may finally play with some metal this season.


For me I'd probably recess the metal in the core. Maybe a 2.5"wide strip down the center.

I'd like to cut out a mesh pattern like the Nordicas a couple years ago but I have to figure out the CNC part of that.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
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skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

I debated whether or not to recess the titanal on the last pair I just made. I only put it in the binding area. The core was already at 10.5mm so I decided not to. The ski is 165cm for a ski coach for training. I used flax and CF in the lay up.
artski
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Post by artski »

So I made the skis. They are;

Base ptex
Titanal( between the edge tangs, and full length)
20 oz. Fiberglass
Core
20oz. Fiberglass
Titanal( 36" centered on boot center) biaxial c/f the rest of the way, both ways
Nylon topsheet

112 tip 68 mid 99 tail
17.5 m sidecut
11.5 core thickness in middle

They came out kinda stiffr than I thought, but not bad. About the same as Volkle codes.
Nothing that I can't bend in a turn. Feels like they'll hold well witch iis what I was going for.
I gotta get them in for a stone grind, then I'll mount them up and ski em.
I'll give report soon
artski
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Post by artski »

By the way vinman, cutting that stuff is very tough. I'm a former tin nocker so I have good snips. It just doesn't cut good, it splinters and chips. It's very weird stuff. Not ductile at all, breaks when bent
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Art, score and snap.
Watch the donek vid eh?

sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

Score it with a razor firmly and then snap it. Smooth out the rough edge with a fine file or sand paper. I put the titanal against the core. But I’ve seen it done both ways.
artski
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Post by artski »

Thanks guys, I'll try that next time
artski
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Re: Section8-titanal

Post by artski »

So, now that we're back up and running.
My new skis are most satisfactory! Like I said in a previous post, they are about the stiffness of Volkl codes. Stif to med stiff. They grip the race course/ ice very well. The Titanal makes them super damp. The carbon gives them some pop at the end of the turn/ transition. My weight is 180 and I I made them 174, should have went a little longer. 180 maybe. Live and learn.
I've skied them in a few different conditions and they handle very well. Old school, new school equally well. Would love to try some more Titanal in my other designs and will do in the future. I wasn't sure how much the Titanal would affect the stiffness, but it's not a lot.
Over all very Happy
Tried to add some pics, but got a note that the files were too big🤔 just regular pics.
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Head Monkey
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Re: Section8-titanal

Post by Head Monkey »

artski wrote: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:28 am Tried to add some pics, but got a note that the files were too big🤔 just regular pics.
The max file size is currently 1MB, so you'll need to resize your pics down a bit. The error message was quite poor, so I went ahead and modified the upload script to tell you the relevant sizes. Hopefully that helps! See here for note and any changes: http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =14&t=5383
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
skidesmond
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Re:

Post by skidesmond »

vinman wrote: Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:25 am Love it Steve!! I may finally play with some metal this season.


For me I'd probably recess the metal in the core. Maybe a 2.5"wide strip down the center.

I'd like to cut out a mesh pattern like the Nordicas a couple years ago but I have to figure out the CNC part of that.
I get the McNichols Metal catalog and have looked at the various mesh and perforated AL and stainless steel. It was stupid expensive and I’m not sure if the AL is high enough quality for skis. I liked the perforated AL idea though, I think it would give the damp characteristics you want and bond well. Not giving up on the idea, just need to find a reasonable source.
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