Well I decided to start a new journal (the old one was Kampai custom). I've changed the name on the boards to WRONG Snowboards.
The name is sort of a long story and was suggested by some mates.
Things have been going pretty well. The homemade CNC has been working well and I can now go from a simple idea for something new, to drawing it up on my laptop, to creating programs and then grab a core and have it trenched waiting for the sealer to dry so I can pour the sidewalls, all in about 4 hours.
I've done a few boards the last few months and even had 2 people ask to buy vouchers for boards to give as presents.
Not really anything new to report on ways to do things though, pretty much trying to keep things pretty standard and just fine tuning everything to make consistency the main target I guess.
I have though started putting quite a large double angle on my sidewalls. I have the usual angled sidewall but then instead of a small 45 degree at the topsheet I make that 45 degree about 3mm along the sidecut and about 2mm at the tip and tail. I haven't tested it enough to confirm yet but I'm hoping it helps stop the common damage along the edges. Especially in lift lines, nothing will stop people on rentals destroying everything in sight of a lift line but it might help minimize it.
WRONG 2017
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
One new shape for me has been a short fatty snowboard.
This one is a 152cm
308mm tip
263 waist
297mm tail.
Birch veneer with a print to suit my mate Monkey who it was built for.
It's mostly camber hybrid profile. The inserts are dead center of the camber and the waist, the nose rocker and sidecut just continues further than the tail so it creates the taper. This way you don't feel the taper on hardpack and it turns just like a twin, but in powder you get the big nose giving lift.
This one is a 152cm
308mm tip
263 waist
297mm tail.
Birch veneer with a print to suit my mate Monkey who it was built for.
It's mostly camber hybrid profile. The inserts are dead center of the camber and the waist, the nose rocker and sidecut just continues further than the tail so it creates the taper. This way you don't feel the taper on hardpack and it turns just like a twin, but in powder you get the big nose giving lift.
Last edited by gav wa on Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:01 am, edited 2 times in total.
Oh one thing I have been doing a bit differently lately is using a long length of non-stick Teflon sheet instead of baking paper.
I've done about 10 boards with it so far and it works great. Dried resin just wipes off and it doesn't crease like baking paper can.
I'm about to order another length and I'm going to try roughing one side a little so I can glue it to my aluminum plates that go either side of my lay-up. At the moment I just sit them in like baking paper. Oh and spray adhesive works great on it too, it holds but when you pull the board out the old glue just wipes off ready for the next board.
It's cheap as on ebay too.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BBQ-MAT-Nons ... G_eS5NI3GA
I've done about 10 boards with it so far and it works great. Dried resin just wipes off and it doesn't crease like baking paper can.
I'm about to order another length and I'm going to try roughing one side a little so I can glue it to my aluminum plates that go either side of my lay-up. At the moment I just sit them in like baking paper. Oh and spray adhesive works great on it too, it holds but when you pull the board out the old glue just wipes off ready for the next board.
It's cheap as on ebay too.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BBQ-MAT-Nons ... G_eS5NI3GA
Most of you won't remember but ages ago I posted a picture of my homemade base grinder in another thread. Most people were skeptical at the time.
Well it's still going strong.
This old girl made from an old wood lathe I bought for $50AUD at a school auction.
And it does a pretty decent grind considering what it cost to build.
I might add a fine water mist sprayer and catch tray this year so I don't have to keep the spray bottle handy to spray it every pass.
Well it's still going strong.
This old girl made from an old wood lathe I bought for $50AUD at a school auction.
And it does a pretty decent grind considering what it cost to build.
I might add a fine water mist sprayer and catch tray this year so I don't have to keep the spray bottle handy to spray it every pass.
Last edited by gav wa on Sun Feb 18, 2018 7:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hello Gav - all looks very good and together
I am sure we have had this conversation before but equally we may not have done - can you give a few details about printing on veneer?
what sort of printer?
paper backed or plain veneer
Pitfalls and pratfalls
Thanks
Also I line all my moulds (I use a vacuum system) with sticky backed silicone tape and then a further coating of spray release on that - keeps everything nice and clean and as you say things just wipe off.
Gilo
I am sure we have had this conversation before but equally we may not have done - can you give a few details about printing on veneer?
what sort of printer?
paper backed or plain veneer
Pitfalls and pratfalls
Thanks
Also I line all my moulds (I use a vacuum system) with sticky backed silicone tape and then a further coating of spray release on that - keeps everything nice and clean and as you say things just wipe off.
Gilo
A silicon sheet is something I have thought about before. Nothing really sticks to well to silicon so should work well. I nearly even made another silicon mat like my heat mats but without the heating wire. I'll google the sticky backed stuff and check it out.
My veneers are just pure timber veneer, no paper backing as it doubles the price around here.
I have an A3+ printer with rear paper roll feed ability which allows for manual paper feed. The little paper guide inside had some raised ridges on it which effected how weĺl it handled the thickness of the 0.6mm veneers so i took to them with a pencil grinder and rotary buff wheel, works sweet.
I just use normal ink and print on the veneer just like a sheet of paper. I leave it to really dry and vapor off the ink for 2 days then its ready to press.
No real secret techniques or anything. Its all pretty simple really. I find simple techniques turn out the best.
My veneers are just pure timber veneer, no paper backing as it doubles the price around here.
I have an A3+ printer with rear paper roll feed ability which allows for manual paper feed. The little paper guide inside had some raised ridges on it which effected how weĺl it handled the thickness of the 0.6mm veneers so i took to them with a pencil grinder and rotary buff wheel, works sweet.
I just use normal ink and print on the veneer just like a sheet of paper. I leave it to really dry and vapor off the ink for 2 days then its ready to press.
No real secret techniques or anything. Its all pretty simple really. I find simple techniques turn out the best.
If I want to rip a bit off quickly I'll start with 40 grit, but usually I just start with 60. Then I use 100 grit to finish. I usually do a couple of boards at a time, or if I'm only doing one I use one of the old rolls that I keep depending on their sharpness.
I find the garnet cloth dulls a bit over time and as it does it gives a better finish, so it works well, the new stuff cuts in a new base nicely but then as it dulls it leaves a good finish.
I spray water a lot. I've just made a small mist bar but haven't tested it yet.
I spray the wheel as it's spinning and also spray the base of the board about every second pass. I slide the board back and forth over it quite quickly for a few seconds and then spray water again.
I'd suggest grabbing an old stuffed board or ski and just giving it a go.
I find the garnet cloth dulls a bit over time and as it does it gives a better finish, so it works well, the new stuff cuts in a new base nicely but then as it dulls it leaves a good finish.
I spray water a lot. I've just made a small mist bar but haven't tested it yet.
I spray the wheel as it's spinning and also spray the base of the board about every second pass. I slide the board back and forth over it quite quickly for a few seconds and then spray water again.
I'd suggest grabbing an old stuffed board or ski and just giving it a go.
The topsheet side straight out of the press.
Another veneer inlayed topsheet. Local pine veneer and American Walnut for all the small pieces.
This is the most involved veneer inlay work I have done to date. Went quite well.
Another veneer inlayed topsheet. Local pine veneer and American Walnut for all the small pieces.
This is the most involved veneer inlay work I have done to date. Went quite well.
Last edited by gav wa on Sun Feb 18, 2018 7:29 am, edited 2 times in total.
This board is going to look beautiful when it's finished.
I put the first finish coat on the top tonight. I'll leave that now for a day or two and then trim the flashing off.
It has a bright pink sidewall which should hopefully look killer against that pine veneer.
As per usual the photo doesn't do it any justice at all, the pine veneer has a real light pink reflection to it. I've used pine before and it always looks OK but not really spectacular, this is the nicest pine veneer I've worked with.
I put the first finish coat on the top tonight. I'll leave that now for a day or two and then trim the flashing off.
It has a bright pink sidewall which should hopefully look killer against that pine veneer.
As per usual the photo doesn't do it any justice at all, the pine veneer has a real light pink reflection to it. I've used pine before and it always looks OK but not really spectacular, this is the nicest pine veneer I've worked with.
Last edited by gav wa on Sun Feb 18, 2018 7:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Trimmed up the latest board and cleaned up the edges and inserts.
Looks pretty awesome, even if I do say so myself.
Pretty damn happy with the finished product. A bit stiffer than I was expecting. I tried out a new resin and it has resulted in figures that would normally result in a very soft flex has actually come out a solid mid flex board.
148cm long. core profile 1.6- 6.7- 6.3- 6.7- 1.6
Waist width of the board is only 244mm, tip 288, tail 278
Glass is 600gsm Triax top and bottom. These specs would normally turn out a really flexible board that would be super easy to ride, especially considering this is a women's board. The flex it has ended up is more a men's mid flex.
I'll do a straight comparison of two strips in the press together, two strips of triax with the two different resins and I'll test the two outcomes.
I think less resin squeezed out than with my other resin too as the board is about 100 grams heavier than the same board with the old resin.
Looks pretty awesome, even if I do say so myself.
Pretty damn happy with the finished product. A bit stiffer than I was expecting. I tried out a new resin and it has resulted in figures that would normally result in a very soft flex has actually come out a solid mid flex board.
148cm long. core profile 1.6- 6.7- 6.3- 6.7- 1.6
Waist width of the board is only 244mm, tip 288, tail 278
Glass is 600gsm Triax top and bottom. These specs would normally turn out a really flexible board that would be super easy to ride, especially considering this is a women's board. The flex it has ended up is more a men's mid flex.
I'll do a straight comparison of two strips in the press together, two strips of triax with the two different resins and I'll test the two outcomes.
I think less resin squeezed out than with my other resin too as the board is about 100 grams heavier than the same board with the old resin.
Last edited by gav wa on Sun Feb 18, 2018 7:32 am, edited 1 time in total.