Wooden bottom mold

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heke
Posts: 113
Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:44 am
Location: Europe

Wooden bottom mold

Post by heke »

Hi, Im new here and have been reading this forum some months.

Has any one use wood as bottom mold? I have vacuum system so forces are not so big. To use wood would be very cheap, I can material for one ski mold less than 10 €; bruce. Let the wood dry inside for some months and make a mold?

It is also natural friendly; the mold can be burn if it don't work..

May this topic has been here before but I was not able to find.
pmg
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Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Hi,

almost everyone using a vacuum press is using a wooden mould. No problem here. Look around a bit and have a look how others built their moulds, there are several ways to do it.

Cheers
heke
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Location: Europe

Post by heke »

Thanks, I thought that moulds are mainly plywood or MDF..
mammuth
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Post by mammuth »

Thats true because its more easy to work with (router).

Motoman used another wood and was not so happy ... http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4991
Tom
pmg
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Post by pmg »

Aaaah now I get it. As the basic material of plywood and MDF is also wood, this is "wood" for me as well :)

Wood moves a lot when conditions change, plywood and especially MDF do it much less. I prefer plywood to MDF, MDF is just ******. And you can burn it :)
heke
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Post by heke »

I bought some spruce to be dryied to app. 9% ( same as in furniture) I have storage room with temp. around + 20 C, drying might take some months but I will try it any way.

However I will build my first skies using MDf mould.
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Akiwi
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Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Hi Heke,
If you are using a vacuum bag then you don't need a wood mould at all.
I have made 2 sets of skis and 2 snowboards successfully using a 3mm aluminium sheet which is bent at the tip and tail for the ends of your skis.
I started with 1.5 mm but this was too thin and flexible. Next was a 3mm sheet and it is excellent. Almost too hard to bend for the tiop and tail, so 2.5 and maybe even 2.0 would also work.

I cut my sheets 40cm wide so enough room for 2 skis or a snowboard.
You do the layup on the aluminium, and then put it all in your vacuum bag. Then when in your bag you can add camber / rocker by using clamps and wood strips.

Look at my Log HB (Hansen Boards).
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... &start=105
You need one aluminium sheet for each different running lemgth of ski / board you build. Mut no limitations for different camber / rocker builds.

I got the idea from "Community Skis"
Check out their video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml5mJhhFJYI
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
heke
Posts: 113
Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:44 am
Location: Europe

Post by heke »

Hi Akiwi, I have seen that it is good idea to use Al plate and it works well.

Unfortunately it is extremelly difficult to get Al- plate.
I need to find a company that use Al plate and try to get it from them.

Any way to get started it is easy to get MDF plate and with reasonable price.
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Akiwi
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Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

heke wrote:Hi Akiwi, I have seen that it is good idea to use Al plate and it works well.

Unfortunately it is extremelly difficult to get Al- plate.
I need to find a company that use Al plate and try to get it from them.

Any way to get started it is easy to get MDF plate and with reasonable price.
Where are you in Europe?
I got mine in Germany over e-bay here
http://stores.ebay.de/metallparadies/

Look for "Aluminium Glattblech 3,0 mm Al Mg 3 Alublech Blech Aluminiumblech Tafel"
You can order this in up to 1950 mm length.

Of course only relevant if you can get it to you.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
heke
Posts: 113
Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:44 am
Location: Europe

Post by heke »

From Finland..they sell big al- plates to companies and you must take 1x2m plate. I have the mdf and I will go first this way at least for first skies.
heke
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Location: Europe

Post by heke »

I have made some mdf parts for mould mdf is 16 mm. Does it work if there is app. 10 mm gap between each mdf. So there will be 16 mm mdf 10 mm spacer etc..All parts together with M10 bar. MDf plates are 200 mm high. I try to bend 4 mm plywood on top of the mdf plates. No so easy, is a plate must? I'm making mould only for one ski.
I have vacuum pump not press.
heke
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Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:44 am
Location: Europe

Post by heke »

To add pictures i must have dropbox or equal? Just finish the mould and glue first wood core. Routering MDF is not a pleasure. I bought a new Makita it's worth of money.
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Akiwi
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Post by Akiwi »

To upload pictures easily then a hosting site makes things a lot easier.
I use abload.de.. which is free.. but only in German, I didn't see a language selection.

I agree that a good powerfull router makes life easier.
I think that the 4mm plywood over 10mm gaps won't Cause any problems.
WHat plywood are you using? Birch or beach is pretty stiff.

Though I don't have any experience there.. Maybe someone else can help out.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
heke
Posts: 113
Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:44 am
Location: Europe

Post by heke »

Has anyone try to make bottom mold using stainless steel plate. I could get some waste pieces that are 1,5 or 2 mm plate. I can make bending of tip/tail part at steel work shop. I mean just steel mould with vacuum.
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Akiwi
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Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

heke wrote:Has anyone try to make bottom mold using stainless steel plate. I could get some waste pieces that are 1,5 or 2 mm plate. I can make bending of tip/tail part at steel work shop. I mean just steel mould with vacuum.
Yes, but that is what I already said, and you said you couldn't get plate. Or do you mean plate for over the mdf.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
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