Ski Builders Forum

If you have a compressor it is not too expensive to do it yourself.
I just came up from doing a second coat on a snowboard.

The paint I use is
Mipa CS-44 2K-HS-Klarlack = €35.90 for a litre. It also comes in 1/2 Litre cans.
Hardner = €18.50
Thinner = €10.20

= Total €63.60

That would be enough to do about 16 pairs of skis (I think).
I use 2 tablespoons of Clearcoat and 1 of hardner twice for 2 layers of Clearcoat.
= about 60 ml / skis - board.

Which comes to about €4.00 per set of skis or snowboard.

Then the spray pistol I use was from E-bay and cost under €20.00.

I got a good 3M mask against the fumes.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-a ... clear.html

This works fairly well for snowboards, $22 per can which can do two boards and is a one day use before it sets up in the can. I doubt anything works for skis like a nylon top sheet does. Like all auto paint clear coats the VOCs are bad, you need a good respirator, and dust free environment that is not where you live.

There are posts in this forum about pressing boards with epoxy on top of the veneer with a smooth release surface on top to have the top sheet finish out very well without the last step of surface finishing.

Hey thx for the tip on the Eastwood 2k spray can - this seems like a good option for me to pursue right now. I work in a coworking space and they are planning on building a spray booth but I don't think it will be up til the season is over. I will repost some pics when I finish out the ski - getting one in the press this weekend. I am posting pics of builds and tuning on my instagram if anyone wants to check it out IG: Iris_Skis

Does anyone know the where the forum post is about pressing skis with epoxy coat over veneer and release paper to get smooth results - I would love to check out this post but I havent come across it so far...

Hey Akiwa - that board looks great! How has it been holding up? I really want to keep with my design of wood topsheet and engraving... but I don't want to put out skis that don't hold up after 2 seasons - really concerns me that most anything you put on top of skis will get chipped by edges (I guess thats not really as much concern for a snowboard unless its a split).

Building a ski for myself I can totally get away with skis getting chipped because I can always re epoxy/clear coat the topsheet - but I would like to start selling some skis atleast locally - my obsession with ski building is expensive!

Boulderski wrote:Hey Akiwa - that board looks great! How has it been holding up? I really want to keep with my design of wood topsheet and engraving... but I don't want to put out skis that don't hold up after 2 seasons - really concerns me that most anything you put on top of skis will get chipped by edges (I guess thats not really as much concern for a snowboard unless its a split).

Building a ski for myself I can totally get away with skis getting chipped because I can always re epoxy/clear coat the topsheet - but I would like to start selling some skis atleast locally - my obsession with ski building is expensive!

As there is so little snow here, we have only mounted the first board I built. It has an oiled top cap and is holding up extremely well. My son has done about 5 days on it, so it is all pretty new still.

What about Henesport 150 Spray Coat?

I took a suggestion by Midnight in the CLR thread and used Max Seal Poly on a set of skis, veneer top and wood sidewalls. I stained the sidewalls first and then used the poly over top and sides. Finish looks great but after two days of my "sidewall bashing" nephew skiing them the poly is pealing off the sidewall and pulling the stain with it? Any suggestions here? My initial thought is to just poly the top and linseed oil the sidewall on future pairs.

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Not much you can do to about that. Surprised it peeled off. Not sure what Max Seal is (ie, water, oil, epoxy/resin base)... I know with water based poly's (System 3 LPU) if the surface isn't clean of oil or oil based finish, like a previous coat of oil based poly, it can peel. So you have to lightly sand the surface, wipe clean with damp cloth and then apply the water base poly. This should be a standard process anyway.

Linseed oil on the sidewall works.

I have been using this stuff and I am having a hard time getting the finish to look good. Very orange peely. Any suggestions?

sorry no real suggestions. I have only used it once but the finish was really good. I brushed it on let it set and wet sanded in between coats. Nice glossy finish on the top. Sidewalls are a different story.

Max Seal didn't work for me also. However it best product I worked with as far working with it. No small, drying fast and looks nice. Unfortunately I didn't find it durable enough, self leveling also is a problem, shortly after starts peeling very easily.

Max seal works. Best I. Very thin layers and aplied very quickly. While its tackly aply another coat. It sticks any surface confaiminats make it peal.

These are the two that I have been using

http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk/

http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resi ... resin.html

Tonkinois is amazing for veneer top sheets

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