Beginners Questions
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IMHO, I think cap construction has normally be associated with cheaper skis and torsionally soft. Sandwich have been associated with race skis or higher quality and torsionally stiffer skis. I still think generally that it's true.
BUT, I have a pair of Atomic Redster GS skis and they are cap. I also have a pair of Fischer GS FIS skis that are sandwich. Both are excellent racing skis. I was really surprised Atomic made a cap racing ski. I felt Atomic was cheaping out or that they may be too soft. Not the case.
I also have a pair of Fischer all mountain skis that are cap and they are torsional soft, so much so I don't ski on them anymore.
So, there's a bit more to it than a "cap is this" and a "sandwich is that". It also depends on the internal structure and laminates used.
BUT, I have a pair of Atomic Redster GS skis and they are cap. I also have a pair of Fischer GS FIS skis that are sandwich. Both are excellent racing skis. I was really surprised Atomic made a cap racing ski. I felt Atomic was cheaping out or that they may be too soft. Not the case.
I also have a pair of Fischer all mountain skis that are cap and they are torsional soft, so much so I don't ski on them anymore.
So, there's a bit more to it than a "cap is this" and a "sandwich is that". It also depends on the internal structure and laminates used.
As said, Important is what is inside.
The cap construction got a bad name as a lot of cheap skis use an outer cap with a foam core. Which of course is easy and cheap to make and is nice and light..
I think a cap construction on a good wood core makes great skis.
The cap construction got a bad name as a lot of cheap skis use an outer cap with a foam core. Which of course is easy and cheap to make and is nice and light..
I think a cap construction on a good wood core makes great skis.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
i have been read the forum but did not found a picture of adjustable planing form/mould, to plan the wood in final dimenssions. ( sorry bad english ). Currently I just have two plywood pieces and some cut plywood pieces to adjust the height. After some try & error the upper plywood is like cheese..quite alot of holes. I'm looking for some simple sollution. I have seen some pictures but can't find those again.
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Probably it is a beginner question so I will ask it here. Accidentally, I sanded bottom of the wood core unevenly. Too powerful belt sander:). Will epoxy fill uneven core and make base flat, or will I get uneven base. I assume / hope it will be flat. When i put a patch of carbon underneath bindings at the bottom of the core, base comes flat. I use vaccum.
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- Posts: 2337
- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
- Location: Western Mass, USA
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Second ski pair on way.. I was little stupid and made the wood core quite short. If I put 2 mm tip spacer her will the ski broke? This is tip part. I will have 760 g/m2 GF on both side of wood core and 0.6 mm veneer on top.
PS. Plastic sheet 2 mm between mould / ski is missing.
PS2 this aluminium bar is usefull to roll curve to tail / tip.
PS. Plastic sheet 2 mm between mould / ski is missing.
PS2 this aluminium bar is usefull to roll curve to tail / tip.
Answer: Are you stupid or what, it is usable. Just soak the veneer with epoxy and let it stay for a while. Remove all loose epoxy and put it on the skies.heke wrote:If surface of veneer is not flat but it is with big & small waves is it usable? Will it be flat in vacuum?
If you leave lot of epoxy to veneer result will not be nice..so first ski was not nice second was very good.
http://quiverkiller.com/collections/frontpage
Is someone using these in the skies? I have a lathe and was thinking to make some using brass instead of stainless steel.. My small lathe & stainless stell don't work well together
Would brass be good enough? It would be easy & fast to make some.
YEs.. after re-thinking I could get some Stainless steel M8 bar and make M5 tread. One 1 m ( 3ft) M8 stainless steel bar is here 5€<>6 -7 USD.
Is someone using these in the skies? I have a lathe and was thinking to make some using brass instead of stainless steel.. My small lathe & stainless stell don't work well together
Would brass be good enough? It would be easy & fast to make some.
YEs.. after re-thinking I could get some Stainless steel M8 bar and make M5 tread. One 1 m ( 3ft) M8 stainless steel bar is here 5€<>6 -7 USD.
Would be a lot of work as you need 18 for a set of bindings
I got the tip from PMG to use Rampa-Muffen from schraubenking.at.
I used 10mm Typ C Thin walled M5.
These..
http://www.schraubenking.at/M5-x-10mm-R ... kt-P003857
I got the tip from PMG to use Rampa-Muffen from schraubenking.at.
I used 10mm Typ C Thin walled M5.
These..
http://www.schraubenking.at/M5-x-10mm-R ... kt-P003857
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.