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Form Block Design/ Nose and Tail Curve Radius?
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 3:32 pm
by pone33
Hello all,
I have been building a pneumatic press based off the i-beam designs i've seen here. It's time for the final component....the mold and form blocks.
we are messing around with different camber and nose and tail curve radius' on a buddies auto CAD but not super happy with what we end up with. Hoping someone can share the curve radius details or even a CAD file to get me going. Hoping to build a new (usable) board before the new season. Any help or a point in the right direction would be greatly appropriated.
thanks so much[/img]
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 5:36 pm
by MontuckyMadman
Oval shape
1.5cm rise falls to 1cm.
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 6:37 pm
by EricW
I used a french curve.
Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:33 am
by gav wa
Are you talking about the curve up of your board at the tip and tail? Or the radius along the sidewall where the effective edge turns into the tip and tail?
If its the first one then you want something around 400-550mm radius.
If you get some A3 paper and draw some 5:1 scale drawings you will know what looks right for board shape when you see it.
Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 7:51 am
by sammer
gav wa wrote:Are you talking about the curve up of your board at the tip and tail? Or the radius along the sidewall where the effective edge turns into the tip and tail?
If its the first one then you want something around 400-550mm radius.
If you get some A3 paper and draw some 5:1 scale drawings you will know what looks right for board shape when you see it.
Either way I just draw it on a something, wood, paper, cardboard, until it looks right. Haven't seen a point in getting all scientific about it. If it looks right it probably is.
sam
Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:47 pm
by gav wa
Just make sure your running length is at least about 100mm shorter than your effective edge. 50mm each end. Unless you are doing a fish or similar, then you don't need to worry so much at the tail.
I usually draw the shape of the board I want first then you can work on the camber profile from there. Done it the other way and ended up having to compromise on the actual shape of the board because the camber mold had such a long running length.
As sammer said, a quick drawing on anything will make any weird looking angles or shapes stand out.
Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 10:08 pm
by Dtrain
Totally...look to far into it and you'll never stop lookin
My best plans come from drunken bar napkin sketches.
Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 2:40 pm
by pone33
Thanks a lot for the help. I'll use the numbers as a base line but dig the bar napkin approach. A good blend of the 2 should get me exactly where I need to be. Cheers