Topsheet beveling
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Topsheet beveling
What methods are people using to bevel their topsheets (if you choose to do so). I have been putting a 45 degree bevel on our topsheets using a combination of filing/scraping. I thought I was going to be able to do this with a small router, but the top of the ski has too many changing contours for a consistent bevel. After seeing Moment (and a couple others) use a palm sander, I tried this method. All I can figure is they use PBT, not nylon, and it sands much easier because this was ridiculously difficult. 5-axis CNC (like RTC) is the clear winner, but short of that - what solutions have others come up with?
Note: again, I am not referring to sidewall beveling. That is a separate topic.
Note: again, I am not referring to sidewall beveling. That is a separate topic.
Last edited by mattman on Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I deleted my post since it was way off topic.
After beveling my sidewalls I just block sand the top edge of the top sheet to knock off the burr. I use 60 grit sandpaper and go all around the ski perimeter. I now only use sublimated PBT topsheets and they hold up very well and don't really chip but they do tend to wear down from skiing, especially at the tips. I like to find some metal tip guards like those found on so many ski brands.
Cheers,
-S
After beveling my sidewalls I just block sand the top edge of the top sheet to knock off the burr. I use 60 grit sandpaper and go all around the ski perimeter. I now only use sublimated PBT topsheets and they hold up very well and don't really chip but they do tend to wear down from skiing, especially at the tips. I like to find some metal tip guards like those found on so many ski brands.
Cheers,
-S
Last edited by SHIF on Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I should clarify, I am not talking about sidewall beveling. I am talking about strictly topsheet beveling. While sidewalls are often beveled between 3 and 30 degrees (from vertical), production skis often have an additional topsheet bevel of between 45 and 60 degrees (from vertical). Because this bevel follows the thickness of the topsheet, running a router along the base seems to be out of the question. See RTC's 45 degree topsheet chamfer (after finishing a 4 degree sidewall bevel) at 2:00: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKLYW9SnIqk
I was going to post this thread too.
I have always bevelled just by sanding (wood veneer or PBT topsheets), but lately been starting on nylon topsheets and the last pair I did don't really have any bevel after sanding the usual amount.
I remember the guys from ON3P saying the change from PBT to nylon was difficult for topsheet bevelling.
I have always bevelled just by sanding (wood veneer or PBT topsheets), but lately been starting on nylon topsheets and the last pair I did don't really have any bevel after sanding the usual amount.
I remember the guys from ON3P saying the change from PBT to nylon was difficult for topsheet bevelling.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
Try using a razor blade. Hold it almost perpendicular to the top sheet with the bevel at your best approximation of 45 degrees. Put your thumb on one side of the blade and index and middle finger on the other either side of the top sheet edge and drag it towards you. It takes a little practice but you can get a nice clean continuous cut this way very quickly. It does get a little trickier around the tips but if it stutters at all or I can't get it all in one continuous perfect cut, I just hit it with a fine file. Hope this makes sense. I didn't really get it until someone showed me.
I use a tilt base router and 15 deg bevel bit set at 30 deg to trim the top sheet and put a shoulder into the top couple mm of the sidewall. This ends up looking like a hip roof style sidewall and sets the top sheet back a couple mm to reduce wear and chipping.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
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i do the tips on the grinder, after i get the glue and the tip shaped right on the grinder, i do a few passes to bevel/smooth the topsheet and when it's done you can see the tip fill sticking out some, which is then a pinch of a barrier.
for the rails, sometimes we run one very, very light pass on the grinder to smooth the topsheet, but often I use a sanding block and some 150 grit.
I've done the razor blade dragging thing, and still do sometimes to deburr, but always follow up with sanding.
PS don't ever check it by running your finger along, fiberglass/epoxy splinters really suck ass.
for the rails, sometimes we run one very, very light pass on the grinder to smooth the topsheet, but often I use a sanding block and some 150 grit.
I've done the razor blade dragging thing, and still do sometimes to deburr, but always follow up with sanding.
PS don't ever check it by running your finger along, fiberglass/epoxy splinters really suck ass.
Doug