Ski Builders Forum

loganimlach wrote:so wait... some of you guys are skiing on unfinished wood sidewalls without any issues? i did all bamboo sidewalls for my first run and was thinking that I absolutely NEEDED to seal them, ending in me applying epoxy to each set with a paintbrush, which to be honest ended up looking like shit. I'm sure I could have done a better job, but it would be great if sealing them wasn't a necessity. I just feel like bamboo would suck moisture right in.

It really is dependent on the wood. Some species are naturally waterproof and require no more treatment. It's one reason teak is so highly prized in marine applications and Ipe for decking.

Given the applications that teak has been used for historically, I would guess its plenty durable for sidewalls. I have a pile of it in the shop so maybe I'll give it a shot this year.

Boiled linseed oil is so easy.
Put a rag on your finger, stick it in the bottle, then just wipe it down.
Give it a day or two to dry. DONE.
I try to do it after the bases are waxed, then you don't worry about base contamination.
So far untreated maple has been very good to me! YMMV

sam

what about spar urethane? i know people use it on veneer top sheets. Wouldnt that work for wood sidewalls as well?

backyardskier wrote:what about spar urethane? i know people use it on veneer top sheets. Wouldnt that work for wood sidewalls as well?

Yup, works...
You might want to re-apply it after you've smashed your skis together a few times though.
I've got more than a few pair with plain untreated maple sidewalls. They don't show any signs of water damage.
4frnt was making skis with maple sidewalls a couple years ago and recommended against sealing them.
Their thought was that any cuts in the finish will let water in to be trapped under the sealant causing rot.

The nice thing about oil finish is it penetrates pretty deep into the wood.
It's been used in fine furniture for thousands of years.
Any finish that dries hard like polyu or epoxy will micro crack over time and let water in, (or will chip when your skis smash together)
The only downside I can see to wood sidewalls is the misconception that they need more maintenance than uhmw or abs.
sam

Is it really a concern?
I have done it on some and not on others. I have a pair that are 6 yrs old without any treatment and they are holding up fine. The sidewall is poplar. Sure it don't look the best but most of my skis are used for a couple seasons only. Mainly because I make another pair...
If resale is a concern, then yes protect them! I have started using epoxy on some of mine. What I have been doing is this:
Cloth top sheet. After pressing and dressing the side and base, I put a coat of epoxy on the top. Set for 30-60 min and repeat two more times. Sand tops up to 2000 grit, Buff and polish. After each application of epoxy, I take a paper towel, fold it up, then wipe the sidewalls smooth. Looks good, seals and protects and conforms nicely to the sidewall shoulder from the router trim. Finish with final base grind, edge work, and wax. Go ski!
RA

I've used maple on about 10 pairs of skis over the past 4 years, and have had zero issues with it. I've made a pair with poplar and rubbed teak oil (similar to linseed in that it take a while to dry, about 1-2 days). I've also used granadillo on two pair and it looks great and has really good rot resistance. I'm considering trying cedar (light, inexpensive, easy to find) but am not 100% sold on it due to natural coloration issues (graying).

I have some extra cherry that would look great as a sidewall. It's a bit hard but it seems like that would be a good option

Upon further review, the Red Balau-Batu-Phillipine Mahogany-whatever you want to call it, that I was touting is no bueno. I have to rescind my recommendation.

It looks great, machines great, and skis great, but doesn't withstand impacts too well even though it is quite dense and hard. I have been skiing the heck out of my park skis that I built this year and after hitting a lot of rails, there is substantial cracking and splintering under foot.

I know park skis always get trashed and have a short lifespan but my other park skis with bamboo sidewalls still look perfect.

Those of you who have done wood sidewalls before. Did you have to rough up the core/ sidewall material pretty good to get a good bond between them.

I just sanded down the side of the core to get the kinks out, but I don't want it to try and glue together smooth. I thought of a rasp to both inside areas to get it rough? Good idea/ Bad idea?

I'd say bad idea on the rasp. If anything I'd rough it up with some sandpaper, maybe 80 or 100. You want the cell structure of the wood to be open. Too rough and you destroy the cell walls and the glue will only bond to the hairy stuff, sanded too smooth is no good either.

gketcham wrote:Those of you who have done wood sidewalls before. Did you have to rough up the core/ sidewall material pretty good to get a good bond between them...?

I use Ipe sidewalls on vertical bamboo cores. The sidewall strips are glued to the bamboo using Titebond 1 wood glue. No special prep needed. The Ipe surface is as ripped on the saw and the bamboo surface is as shaped with a router. Then after rough tapering with my planer and angle jig, I sand the whole core assembly to profile using 40 grit in my 4x24 belt sander. Then I hand sand with 60 grit to get my final profile. Just prior to ski building I wipe it down with a damp cloth to get the dust off.

My skis show zero signs of delamination after 70+ days use this season. By the way, I only place VDS rubber across the tips and tails to help my full-wrap edges maintain a solid bond in these heavily abused areas.

-S

SHIF wrote:Then after rough tapering with my planer and angle jig, I sand the whole core assembly to profile using 40 grit in my 4x24 belt sander. Then I hand sand with 60 grit to get my final profile. Just prior to ski building I wipe it down with a damp cloth to get the dust off.


-S

First off, that's crazy you profile with that tiny sander?? crazy!
second, you put moisture in the layup?
I guess you are lucky but that's a bad idea to bring any water into the mix as I understand.

MM, I remove 95% of the material on the planer. I then thin out area between the bindings and the tip filler ends. I measure thickness every 10 cm along the length, plot the data, then make adjustments with the sander. Takes three iterations to get a pair of cores very close. After routering for my wrap-around tip fillers, I use my little 2.5x14 sander to dial in the tips and tails perfectly flat and matching my fillers in thickness. These are hand-crafted skis indeed. Not like I'm into production, 19 pairs in 6+ years. Sure I'd love a CNC router and the works, but can't justify it.

I didn't mention that I use solvent for my wipe down, not water. Usually denatured alcohol. Sorry for the confusion.

Cheers,
-S

how about hickory sidewall? iirc back in the days of wooden skis they were made from hickory.

how about mahogany?
Mahogany also used for outdoor decks. Should be easier to find and cheaper compared to IPE it's not as hard in comparison
I think mahogany can be good option for sidewall

Hickory should be ok, it's hard and durable. Mahogany is much softer. It's has good weather/water/rot resistance which is why it makes for good decking. It would look awesome for sidewall with it's rich red color. A couple good coats of poly maybe sufficient. All depends on the abuse the ski will take.