Bent Green Things 13/14
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Bent Green Things 13/14
Place holder for this year.
CNC is all fired up and in tip top shape.
here comes my "below the line" not so awesomeness:
Okay, so far CAD is the pain in my ass this year. I can whip out a ski shape(X/Y) and profile (Z) in about 5 minutes because I've made a billion of them trying to figure crap out. I can compound the pieces so I have the shape in all 3axis. extrude... ya no. all the examples I've found does not have how follow a increasing decreasing profile. First I cheated with a profile by making two wedges on top of a rectangular box. then I figured how to rotate the profile on the x axis to it is in the z axis but then I run into the issue with trying to get the sidewalls to curve. does this make sense. blaaaa.
if CAD had a face I'd punch it in the face. Okay I feel better now. going to bed.
"Short" list of objectives:
1.) makes skis
2.) Punch CAD in the face then learn how to come up with a profile in the Z axis to run on CNC. Then apologize for punching CAD in the face and buy it a beer.
3.) make dust shield for CNC
4.) make a drag knife
5.) Don't get injured
6.) ski more than once this season
7.) take my daughter up the chairlift this year
8.) drink less beer and more tequila ;-)
9.) take my wife out to diner more often because she is a saint for letting me spend this kind of clam on a "hobby".
thats all I can think of right now. cheers.
CNC is all fired up and in tip top shape.
here comes my "below the line" not so awesomeness:
Okay, so far CAD is the pain in my ass this year. I can whip out a ski shape(X/Y) and profile (Z) in about 5 minutes because I've made a billion of them trying to figure crap out. I can compound the pieces so I have the shape in all 3axis. extrude... ya no. all the examples I've found does not have how follow a increasing decreasing profile. First I cheated with a profile by making two wedges on top of a rectangular box. then I figured how to rotate the profile on the x axis to it is in the z axis but then I run into the issue with trying to get the sidewalls to curve. does this make sense. blaaaa.
if CAD had a face I'd punch it in the face. Okay I feel better now. going to bed.
"Short" list of objectives:
1.) makes skis
2.) Punch CAD in the face then learn how to come up with a profile in the Z axis to run on CNC. Then apologize for punching CAD in the face and buy it a beer.
3.) make dust shield for CNC
4.) make a drag knife
5.) Don't get injured
6.) ski more than once this season
7.) take my daughter up the chairlift this year
8.) drink less beer and more tequila ;-)
9.) take my wife out to diner more often because she is a saint for letting me spend this kind of clam on a "hobby".
thats all I can think of right now. cheers.
- MontuckyMadman
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CNC machine... I've tried to mess with CAD on the pc. The biggest obstacle to over come in CAD is that you can't think intuitively, ie try to draw a line and expect it to come out looking like an arc with correct dimensions. I'll get a CNC one of these days but not until I have time to devote to it.
Until then, I'll keep refining the ski building process.
Good luck with your objectives! Getting my kids on the chair was a major milestone (wayback when). Maybe you should move objective #9 to #1, just in case your wife sees your list :-D
Until then, I'll keep refining the ski building process.
Good luck with your objectives! Getting my kids on the chair was a major milestone (wayback when). Maybe you should move objective #9 to #1, just in case your wife sees your list :-D
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- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
What I do is create a planform model, and a profile model. The planform model starts as a simple vertical extrusion of my overall ski shape. Then I offset that in the edge width, and extrude that up, which becomes my base shape. Then I offset it in my sidewall width. It ends up looking like a ski-shaped wedding cake, but since I'm not doing any 3D machining, it makes it much easier. The thicknesses of the extrusions is arbitrary too the way I do it.
For the profile I just model a wide block with the profile shape, I don't bother with the actual ski planform shape.
For the profile I just model a wide block with the profile shape, I don't bother with the actual ski planform shape.
Thats how i do it as well.twizzstyle wrote:What I do is create a planform model, and a profile model. The planform model starts as a simple vertical extrusion of my overall ski shape. Then I offset that in the edge width, and extrude that up, which becomes my base shape. Then I offset it in my sidewall width. It ends up looking like a ski-shaped wedding cake, but since I'm not doing any 3D machining, it makes it much easier. The thicknesses of the extrusions is arbitrary too the way I do it.
For the profile I just model a wide block with the profile shape, I don't bother with the actual ski planform shape.
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Great video... brings the literal meaning to "rock skis".... Shouldn't they be in school?OAC wrote:...if you wondered what happened with the lost generation in Finland after Matti Nykänen!skimann20 wrote:I found this one today. I feel like ski videos are all the same today but I think these guys are on to something. I found this one quite entertaining!
Great skills!
wiring help:
Switched the plug on my ski grinder and opened the motor up to verify that is was wired correctly before sending 240 through it. Here is what the diagram says:
HIGH VOLTAGE
1---- LINE
8 \
3 -------------to reverse rotation interchange leads 8 and 5
2 /
4\______Line
5/
8,3,2 are correct but 4 and 1 are switched. so 4 is by itself and 1,5 are together.
Thoughts??? think I should switch it back. I never saw it run when I bought it so who knows if it was run after it was rewired.
Switched the plug on my ski grinder and opened the motor up to verify that is was wired correctly before sending 240 through it. Here is what the diagram says:
HIGH VOLTAGE
1---- LINE
8 \
3 -------------to reverse rotation interchange leads 8 and 5
2 /
4\______Line
5/
8,3,2 are correct but 4 and 1 are switched. so 4 is by itself and 1,5 are together.
Thoughts??? think I should switch it back. I never saw it run when I bought it so who knows if it was run after it was rewired.
Looks like 1 and 4 are your line to the motor and really are interchangable.
5 and 8 are probably to the start cap.
Should be ok the way it is or change it if it makes you feel better.
***Disclaimer, I'm not an electrician, but I play one from time to time.***
sam
5 and 8 are probably to the start cap.
Should be ok the way it is or change it if it makes you feel better.
***Disclaimer, I'm not an electrician, but I play one from time to time.***
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Sam, that's exactly what i was thinking. seemed like no big deal but I don't want to fry the motor.sammer wrote:Looks like 1 and 4 are your line to the motor and really are interchangable.
5 and 8 are probably to the start cap.
Should be ok the way it is or change it if it makes you feel better.
***Disclaimer, I'm not an electrician, but I play one from time to time.***
sam
I got ahold of two electricians and they said to "wire according to the diagram, there would' be no reason that it should be wired that way, and they would have had to open the case of the motor to switch wires around. way to much work".
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just buy a dust shield from KentCNC.
The piece with the brush component is held on by magnets, you just grab it and pull it off, or put it on, it's that simple, and it works great!
One less project to worry about. Seems pricy, but you just spent XXthousand on your cnc, so it's pocket change in comparison .
The piece with the brush component is held on by magnets, you just grab it and pull it off, or put it on, it's that simple, and it works great!
One less project to worry about. Seems pricy, but you just spent XXthousand on your cnc, so it's pocket change in comparison .
Doug