Why Knot?

Dr. Delam · Post by **Dr. Delam** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:29 pm

I strongly suggest attaching both edges on at the same time. Any tension in the edges is likely to skew your bases. Plus, I find it faster this way.

vinman · Post by **vinman** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 11:15 pm

^^what he said.

loganimlach · Post by **loganimlach** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:57 am

Dr. Delam wrote:I strongly suggest attaching both edges on at the same time. Any tension in the edges is likely to skew your bases. Plus, I find it faster this way.

sweet, thanks for the tip. my cheap ass was just trying to avoid buying more clamps, but when i start adding up all of this shit i suppose what's $30?

PTTR · Post by **PTTR** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:12 am

I also use 19 oz triax and no carbon but my cores are somewhere inbetween 13 and 12 mm at the bindings. The stiffest I have ever made where 13,5 and the softest I haver ever made (a touring ski for a friend) where 11,0. The 13,5 are really stiff. 12.4 mm is what we make most skis. Good grip on ice but still soft enough for me to ski on for a full day.

loganimlach · Post by **loganimlach** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:19 am

PTTR wrote:I also use 19 oz triax and no carbon but my cores are somewhere inbetween 13 and 12 mm at the bindings. The stiffest I have ever made where 13,5 and the softest I haver ever made (a touring ski for a friend) where 11,0. The 13,5 are really stiff. 12.4 mm is what we make most skis. Good grip on ice but still soft enough for me to ski on for a full day.

i'm so confused, mine are at 11.3 and literally feel too soft to ski on. softer than hellbents. i mean i know no two cores are going to perform exactly the same, but if yours were even skiable at 11 with 19oz triax and no carbon then i must have something else going on.

vinman · Post by **vinman** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:45 pm

Make sure you place the longitudinal glass fibers facing the base on the bottom layer and facing the top sheet in the top layer.

The further away your longitudinal fibers are from the core, you'll add to the overall stiffness of the ski. The long fibers are referred to as the warp in a triax glass fabric. Think "warp out"

I agree 11mm with only 19 oz glass would be a noodle for normal sized people. I'd make a light youth of light weight adult ski with 10.5-11 mm underfoot maybe.

For normal people i don't go less than 11.5-11.6 if the want a soft ski.

PTTR · Post by **PTTR** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 5:03 pm

The ones I built with 11 mm cores where touring skis for a light friend. A couple of 10th of a millimiter makes a huge difference. As I said above, normal skis for me would be around 12,4 mm at the thickest point, but I have also made stiffer and softer for different purposes. In my setup the range inbetween soft and stiff goes from ca 13mm to 12mm. Anything thicker og thinner is very soft or very stiff. I don't use extra fibers to tweak the flex but have a precis and easily changeble router crib for my profiling. it sounds nerdy but I measure everything in 10th of milimiters when profiling cores.

chrismp · Post by **chrismp** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:47 pm

Not nerdy at all, you have to measure in 10ths of millimeters in order to achieve consistent results.

loganimlach · Post by **loganimlach** » Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:00 pm

back at it, aiming for 8 pairs in 10 days.

paulownia with ash stringers.

loganimlach · Post by **loganimlach** » Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:52 am

so happy i'm done with the MDF cutting portion, the cleanup is always a bitch afterwards.

the pow skis will be paulownia w/ ash stringers and bamboo sidewalls, i'm making flat camber urban skis that are bamboo, and some cambered park skis that are alder w/ ash stringers.

loganimlach · Post by **loganimlach** » Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:07 pm

well 8 pairs in 10 days was a bit ambitious. now, however, i'm on schedule for 6 pairs in 13 days. i'll start pressing the first pair tomorrow.

some process shots:

bummed i'm gonna have to cover these with carbon but they profiled just a little too thin

they would have been great to throw a clear topsheet over.

my 3 core types all prepped:

twizzstyle · Post by **twizzstyle** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 7:58 am

Very ambitious indeed! but looks like you're kicking butt! Keep it up, but don't get complacent... some kind of disaster is bound to happen if you let your guard down! The simple mistakes are the worst.

backyardskier · Post by **backyardskier** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 4:52 pm

loganimlach wrote:well 8 pairs in 10 days was a bit ambitious. now, however, i'm on schedule for 6 pairs in 13 days.

Go big or go home with ski making. Impressive

loganimlach · Post by **loganimlach** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 7:49 pm

twizzstyle wrote:Very ambitious indeed! but looks like you're kicking butt! Keep it up, but don't get complacent... some kind of disaster is bound to happen if you let your guard down! The simple mistakes are the worst.

damnit i wish i would have read those words earlier!

first pair is out of the bag and wouldn't you know it, despite 40 min layup and almost 700g of epoxy i managed to not fully wet out the top glass on one ski's tail.

son of a bitch. i forsee epoxy and clamps in that skis future. this has to have happened to someone else. recommended before or after cutting off the flash? i'm thinking i'll split the pair and do it then.

other than that they look good, flat bases, the carbon tape swam a little and i avoided any top sheet bubbles or wrinkles. on to the next pair.

twizzstyle · Post by **twizzstyle** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:55 pm

Don't sweat it, this won't be your last problem

If it were me, I'd split the skis apart, but not cut off all the flashing yet. Get epoxy in there as best you can, and get it nice and hot so it gets really thin, it'll soak up easier that way and hopefully bond with the existing epoxy. If you can get it wetted enough, you might be able to hide it completely. I wouldn't bother pressing it, it's got the shape at this point you just want to saturate the glass with epoxy.

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Why Knot?