Ski Builders Forum

They're using a hand held planner - I think.

Have you isolated the router and run a test? find an old plank, a couple of feet long and set a guide using a small strip of wood. Cut a shallow depth against the strip, start at 1 mm and check whether you get a consistent cut. Look at the quality of the cut. Move the strip back and repeat. Increase the depth of the cut until you release the maximum cut depth for this cutter.

This should help you isolate the issue from the jig and assumes the router is working just fine. Play around using a simple jig until you work it out, check the speed at which you are attempting to cut.

I would hold on to things built in the 70's, if its not at fault, then it was obviously built to last.

Happy to help Sammer! Btw, have you looked at carbon heating film? I manufacturer might send a sample. A dimmer switch and a plug should be all you need for a low wattage film.

Saw you journal MR - stella result!

Richuk wrote:Happy to help Sammer! Btw, have you looked at carbon heating film?

It's a hand planner BYSkier. Saw you journal MR - stella result! How much are you taking off in one pass?

for now while testing doing only pine.
1/16" to 3/16" tried 1/4" without problems. Wouldn't do 1/4 on actual core so

Yeah, if the router is running smooth after 30 years and is fine on other jobs, it was obviously built to last, unlike the Ryobi. "Quality tools are hard to find"

not all older routers have variable speed option. Speed is very impotent. 1 1/2" diameter router bit should go on 10000 to 12,000 RPMs. BYSkier you can get variable speed controller in any woodworking store even at HF tools

My first core looked like that. I added double sticky tape to the bottom of the core to hold it super flat (peel off caaaarefully) and realized I was putting my weight on the router when arms were extended. This is especially easy to do when working on the floor.

Sammer-- you always offer good takes...i love the simplicity of those rails!

Speed is very impotent. 1 1/2" diameter router bit should go on 10000 to 12,000 RPMs. BYSkier you can get variable speed controller in any woodworking store even at HF tools

Yes there is no speed controller on it, I'm going to set up another test run sometime soon with beefed up rails and double stick tape to hold down the core. If that doesnt work I will be trying my luck on a planer crib and running it through a table saw.

If your router isn't a fancy soft start, buy this. http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... 43060.html

backyardskier wrote: I'm going to set up another test run sometime soon with beefed up rails and double stick tape to hold down the core. If that doesnt work I will be trying my luck on a planer crib and running it through a table saw.

I wouldn't use double sided tape to hold your core down. The extra thickness even if its 1/10mm will make a difference.
A good bead of hot glue around your tip and tail and spots along the edges will hold it more securely.
Use a razor knife or chisel to cut the glue when your done.
I don't think I would trust the bond of double sided tape with the high frequency vibrations and lifting force of the router.
Plus if it does bond really good you may break your newly profiled core getting it off the bench.

As always YMMV, yadda yadda yadda.

sam

Sammer the hot glue I have when I use it leaves a pretty thick drop around .5 - 1.00 mm thats why I'm thinking double sided tape.

backyardskier wrote:Sammer the hot glue I have when I use it leaves a pretty thick drop around .5 - 1.00 mm thats why I'm thinking double sided tape.

Glue the perimeter not underneath.



Clamp your cores down so they are perfectly flat then glue around the edge, once the glue hardens remove your clamps.
I just hold it down with my hand and work slowly.
Don't worry if your bead of glue is higher than your finished core your router won't even know it's there.
Also the glue from double sided tape is a bear to remove.

sam

Thanks did a little test today with a small board with just hot glue holding it down and it did great.
Also just to show you guys the router, I will be buying a new one soon this thing is too old in my opinion and the bit is only a quarter inch collet. Also looked it up it is from the 60s.
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backyardskier wrote:Also just to show you guys the router, I will be buying a new one soon this thing is too old in my opinion and the bit is only a quarter inch collet. Also looked it up it is from the 60s.

You'd do far better to get that one serviced and spend the leftovers buying some quality bits than to spend the same money or more buying a cheap POS, in my opinion.

From appearance the router looks sound. If you're profiling cores with that router you may be asking a bit too much from it. I would check if the router bit is travelling. I have a Craftsman 1/4 bit. It's not as old as yours, bought it in the early 90's and it served me well. But what started to happen is the depth adjustment on the base of the router would no longer stay tight and the depth of the bit would change as I would route out the material and you know that's not good I would check if that's the case.

Also any flexing at all in the sled will cause uneven cutting. Even a cheap bit could cause that as well. A cheap bit can be unbalanced and wobble. Trouble shoot the cheap things first before dropping $$ on a 1/2 router.

power planer style core work, like building surfboard cores.

Jigsaw'd template, razorbladed base, it doesnt get any more raw.

The raddest part is its in innsbruck, and Schlick 2000 is also my own personal favorite resort, probably because when I was there I scored bottomless pow in the out of bounds areas. I'll have to pay these guys a visit.

knightsofnii wrote:power planer style core work, like building surfboard cores.
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What do you mean power planer?

backyardskier wrote:

knightsofnii wrote:power planer style core work, like building surfboard cores.
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What do you mean power planer?

I think he's talking about using a power planer like in richuks video.
Still haven't figured out how you would adjust the depth.

sam

U just keep planing till the machine bottoms out. Its a hand plane so the harder you push the more material it removes with each pass.