Ski Builders Forum

using inserts or wooden pins seems to be a popular way to match the core and base up perfectly when pressing. it also seems like a lot of people are unhappy with results like base impressions and core shifts if those come off the base material. i figured, that since tip spacer is basically a part of the core for layup, why not use the excess tip spacer hanging over the base to center the core? if the tip spacer was cut to the width of the mold and made it to each end of the mold perfectly, the core could be perfectly centered over the base material. the base would have to be glued to the mold and the tip spacer would need to be secured to the corners of the mold during layup, but i think it might work for vacuum type presses. i'd love to hear what people think

You can't or shouldn't fasten the tip spacer, base to the mold or cassette unless you do it in the center. The materials needs to bend/slide to conform to the mold in the press.

But I can see where you're going w/ this..... sounds like you'd be doing the layup on a cassette on the mold and conforming the material during the layup to the mold. Your materials would have to be pre-shaped pretty closely to the shape of the mold, especially the base because of the edges, tip spacers would have to be pre-bent also.

Mervin manufacturing does exactly that. Cnc cut Tip/tail spacers with tabs on them that align with pegs on the cassette.

I have glued wood block to my sidewalks that contain a hole in them and glue inserts to the cassette outside the base. Core sits on the base perfectly. This took a lot of time and effort. I started just putting the insert on the base and drilling the core.

Snowboard have tons of inserts anyway, what's a couple more?
I too was keen to keep the shit you don't need out of the boards, but now I'm not bothered. I am yet to see base divers etc. though.

why would you add more inserts as a core locator? just use the ones that are already there. i always glue two random inserts of the insert pack to the base and thats it.

Not a bad idea. Might try that sometime

I hot glue done MDF scrap to the aluminum after placing the base and core. Cut off in the flashing.

I did just have a small piece of on of these blocks 1.5cmx 2mm x 3mm deep get trapped under the base layer of glass in my last pair. Ground out and filled with epoxy just fine but have to be more careful when placing the core not to force it down.

i've glued 2 inserts, one at each of the outer corner of insert packs, to align.
It takes a lot of time just figuring out where to glue the darn insert down, and sometimes the core doesnt like to sit properly into the inserts.

just came up with a new idea, i'll let you guys know about it soon.

to mark the location where the inserts have to be glued to the core i simply place the core on top of the base with edges and mark the center of two insert holes on the base. then i draw a crosshair which reflects the diameter of the bases of the inserts (in my case 20mm) on that point. after that it's just a matter of glueing the insert on the crosshair.

An easy way to do this is to put 2 inserts in the holes where you want them to be, then put some super glue on them, flip the core back, then place the core on the base. When it sits perfect press down on the inserts thrue the core for a minute. Then just lift the core up carefully. Ta da

I was looking through the forums and this is almost the same as what I was describing

ProbsMagobs wrote:I was looking through the forums and this is almost the same as what I was describing

I forgot about that video. I guess fastening the tip spacer does work, I would make sure the hole in the tip spacer allows for the tip spacer to flex and not pull away from the wood core.

Every year we have been looking to find the best cassette setup. Last year we did not use the tip/tail pins and went for aluminum guides that surrounded the base. It made things complex; need tight tolerances, tougher to keep clean, and if base popped onto that guide... you would end up with a major edge recess.

This year we went back to this pin method. It's been working out great. This year we added the bases into the mix. Bases tabbed out on tip/tail of 3/4 wrap edges. Very similar with tipfill/core as old layup video. Drill 4 alignment holes and cassette is complete.