Ski Builders Forum

I use a paste wax called 'Crystal Clear Paste wax" it has carnauba wax in it. I don't spare it when I wax the AL. Epoxy pops right off, even glue. I've used parchment paper too. Be careful using it on the top, you could get wrinkles that transfer to the top sheet.

when i ran into the topsheet wrinkles problem i tried just about every release agent imaginable (hairspray, teflon spray, silicone spray, carnauba based wax, hpva, etc.) and came to the conclusion that nothing works as well and is as hassle free as parchment paper (hairspray worked pretty well actually).
this is why i concentrated on how to keep the parchment paper from wrinkling. the solution i came up with is that i just put some spray glue on the very ends on the top of the upper aluminum sheet and stick the parchment paper to it with a little bit of tension. tadaa, no more wrinkles.

I agree that mold release agents still require a little work. Even when I used the expensive commercial pro stuff working for Praxis, I still had to spend some time cleaning cassettes between pressings.

The parchment paper is quick and easy but I did get wrinkles on my topsheet as well. I still use it for my bottom aluminum but I just wax my top with Maguires car wax now. I get very little epoxy on my top aluminum, sometimes none at all if I do it right. I have to clean them pretty good anyways since they sit around awhile in between pressings.

Here's how I do my layup. I use spray adhesive on my base material to adhere it to the parchment paper. I'll spray a little on the parchment paper at the tips and tails to make sure they stay down. I fold up the sides of the parchment paper to contain any excess epoxy. Then I staple the parchment paper to the mold so it stays exactly where I want it to in the mold. It's clean and easy with very little epoxy getting under the base.

I think im going to just put it on the bottom cassette. My top stays pretty damn clean.

I love the graphics on your skis, is the wood part of the graphic or the actual core itself?

Also, how did you find your work space to rent and how much is it?

It's the actual core.

As far as getting my workspace, It's all about who you know, networking and phone calls. A lot of phone calls.

Im new to building skis so correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you put a layer of composite over the core which would block you from seeing it? Or did you just leave the composite out above the core? I want to figure out how to get the wood to show through like that and skibuilding doesnt say if that's what normally happens if you don't include a graphics layer or not.

And I'm going to have to find something like that, the only problem is finding something that's close and remotely affordable.

Once your fiber is wetted it shows through. More so if you use heat.

And yea, I pretty much work my rear off to pay for the extra expenses/consumables. The shop has finally payed it's own expenses however. It just takes time and persistence. I was working out of a barn and heating the barn with a kerosene heater all last season. THAT sucked.

thanks clearing that up, that's how I thought you get the wood to show through but I wasn't sure because no one really says

by the way, the bruins graphics are sweet

Got a little bit done before the super bowl. Going to get belted, waxed and sharpened tomorrow. Then they ship out.

Nice looking skis Chris! Do you belt and tune in-house as well?

Thanks Buz!

Sadly not yet. Hopefully this summer I'll be able to pick up a grinder. Right now I bring it to the local ski shop. $35 a wack to have em belted, waxed and sharpened.

yeah i'm in the same boat, $40 a pair...my last pair the poor kid had to make 20-30 passes cuz my base was so high. I brought him a 30-pack with the next.

Yea mine aren't too bad (I can do it myself in about an hour by hand with some water and 120 grit) but I don't have mine run through the diamond. Just belted. Usually the only complaints I get are a couple of the guys are afraid to run the skis over the belt without bindings on. Too afraid to hit the belt with their hand.

how much camber do you use for the mold?