Ski Builders Forum

as for separating the wires i've used two small patches of biax fiberglass soaked in silicone resin for the last blankets i built...worked really well.

so you can see my confusion. Your picture clearly shows wires crossing and touching. right?

Yes, but the picture also shows nails still in place. You think I was going to leave those in as well? The pic just shows that the wire is there, laid out like it should be, hooked around the nails. Those nails are just holding the ends in place while the silicone over them dries. Once dry I will remove the nails, connect one lead to all the appropriate wires and bury that in silicone and triax and let dry, then connect the remaining lead wire, and finish the blanket off with a whole new layer of triax and silicone. The blanket is far from finished. Sorry for the confusion. For the next blanket I'll try and take some more pics of the process.

So the blanket is nearly done. Just waiting for the silicone to fully cure. Did a quick test plug-in and it works! You can definitely FEEL the power surging through the blanket. Would hate to get zapped with that!

Just ordered some Entropy Super Sap CPM (1.5gal kit). How many skinny boards (single fat pow ski really) do you think I can press with this amount of resin?

I also received my order of base and edge material from the folks over at Skilab. Looks great! Can't wait to put it all together!

Next step is building the PID control box. Have all the essentials, still need to get some fuses and switches, etc. Still have to build the press mold and profile the core. I did get some CNC templates cut, so that should expedite the process.

Hoping to get most of it done before xmas, and have the first board made before the New Year.

Stay tuned!

five

Thanks Montucky!

Its been WAY too long since I have done anything constructive with this project.

I did some experimenting with pouring my own sidewalls. Seemed to work well.









I also acquired a Bridgeport milling machine from my old man. Got it up and running and tried some core profiling on it. Works well, not ideal.



I did wire up a nice PID control box. I made the mistake of doing it for 110v to match my heat blankets. After testing the heat blankets, they don't get hot enough for my resin. So I went ahead and did some recalculating to make some 220v blankets. Just have to make them and rewire the PID control box for 220v.

I did end up getting some CNC templates cut from MDF. They work well enough, but I messed up my mold template. I will be ordering some more when I get some extra cash.

I do have a question about base/edge. I had two templates made, one is the core size, the other is the size of the finished board. I was planning on using the finished board template to cut out my base material, but then I realized, WHAT ABOUT THE EDGE?! If I just attach my edges to the base material, the edges would make the board that much wider than my planned width. I was also NOT planning to do a full wrap, at least for my first board. Should I just say screw it and use the templates I have, or is there a better method someone can share? I am thinking just a whole new set of templates.

you can make dimensionally smaller or larger templates from an existing template or offset the core or base on a template and cut. But the long and short of it is yes you need several templates or variations to do what you want to do, consistently.
Measure 3 times cut once.

i plan for that in design, so that when the edge is added, the dimensions are correct.

If using sno-cad, there's no direct function for this, just make all widths 4mm shorter and tip/tail lengths 2mm shorter, and you'll be close enough to overall desired shape.

If you have an exact template, just get a rabbeting bit that's umm... as close to that 2mm as you can get, and make another template

looking good! it's always nice to see my ideas catching up such a clean job on the routing of the channel! did you use a template for that?

what resin did you use to pour your sidewalls?

Yes I have two templates made. One is the core size, the other is the final board size. I am just going to use the final board size template for the base material and attempt a full wrap edge.

I routed the channel in two passes. The core is a one piece Aspen core. Really smooth routing. Came out really well.

I used Smooth On PMC-790. I also used some Ignite magenta fluorescent dye to sort of match the pink base material I have purchased. Going to use that same base material as a topsheet on the first board. Little pink wiggle stick. hahaha.

I would like to start using a planer crib to profile my cores. I understand the concept of it. I even tried a simple mock up version and tried to run it through the planer. It just seemed really difficult with the raised in going first. What is the best technique when using a planer crib? Any tips or advice? Anyone find the best, most easily adjustable crib design?

using base as a topsheet is a waste of many things.
it watses base, it adds unnecessary weight.
Doesnt make sense to me but whatevere.

Feed it into the planer slowly, set the height up so its only cutting 2-3mm of wood in each pass. Decrease the height with each subsequent pass.

If you cut 2-3mm with each pass you'll likely rip off any ptex sidewall and dull your blades very fast. Try .5 mm or less in the final passes.

Finally was able to get some time away from the fiance and other things to get back into this project. Last night I worked on getting my cat track all drilled, deburred and strung together. I am going to need a few more pieces to make it the desired length for the press.

I also retested my homemade heat blanket. When I originally tested it I had no real pressure on the pad other than a 2x4. This time I clamped some boards down over the thermocouple and yielded great results! Takes about 30-40min to fully heat up! I will be using SuperSap CPM so cure will be at 80*C for 30min.



Will one blanket be enough to cure a board? Plans were to make two...