Ski Builders Forum

Is everyone planing the ABS sidewalls when they are attached to the wood core or are you doing it separately.

I tried to plane some cores today for the 3rd time and I can not get the abs to stay attached to the wood cores as it goes to the planer. I was close today with only 3 mm to go and then they popped off. I have flame treated before I epoxy them to the cores. Any suggestions?

Anyone have a video of them putting the cores through the planer?

thanks for your help.

Do them separate. You will never be able to get the ptex to hold at the tips. There are many strings in this forum about how to attach sidewalls, do some searching.

Sorry trying to figure this out, are you then epoxying them onto the wood cores, letting them cure and then you build the ski. Isn't it difficult to clamp them together especially at the end of the cores where it is 2 mm thick?

thanks

theres all kinds of sticky stuff out there, cryocynate, hot glue, polyurethane glue, stick goo, you name it

Ive had some success keeping ptex attached. Planer indeed table needs to be set up right. Blades should be new or newly sharpened. the tips and tails should be hot glued in place. The sidewall itself if rabbeted needs to be supported. I squirt some hot glue under it.

I'm sure there are other approaches but this is what I do.

I've tried a bunch of techniques but failed every time. Just like you I can get really close, but usually when I've got one pass to go, it'll rip off 5" of sidewall.

Once I get my sidewalls close to the spec I want I'll stop. If the the waist is still too think I'll run them through flat without the crib to get them to the correct thickness. This gives a bit of a flat spot but I belt sand the transition points some to take a bit off and round them off and abrade them in one shot.

i do router bridge with sidewalls always attached.

it s important to hold the router stabile that it does not do any unpredicted movements and second, the most import: never route sidewalls in the oppsoite direction of your router, always go with it. otherwise sidewalls pop of.
routing wood go in the opposite direction to have a better cut of the wood fibres.

I attach the sidewalls using gorilla glue on the factory treated side and then run through the planer until the waist is the thickness I want. This way the bottom of the core and the sidewalls are perfectly flat and flush. I finish on a router bridge. With the waist being the thickness I want from planing, it usually only takes one pass on the router bridge to get my profile. Ive only had one sidewall catch the router blade at the tip this way. Not that fastest method, but Ive discovered there is nothing fast about producing your cores with basic tools.

put wood outside the plastic so its sandwiched in like they do on cnc stuff.
leave extra at the tip and tail as well and cut off after profiling.

MontuckyMadman wrote:put wood outside the plastic so its sandwiched in like they do on cnc stuff.
leave extra at the tip and tail as well and cut off after profiling.

I tried (or tried to try) this last time, but in my haste I didn't sand or flame treat the outside edge of the sidewall when I epoxied on the wood, and it just popped off as soon as I was handling it. Fail on my part.

I did that...thought I had a bad batch of CA glue. drilled .030 holes and inserted brass pins. I later found out that I actually AM retarded


Flame.

So it is okay to glue the sidewalls to the wood with gorilla glue? I thought I was only suppose to use epoxy?

I appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge to us new builders.

thanks for your help!!

flame treat/CA use the technique that montucky describes and you'll be fine. The best way though, is another thing entirely if you're producing volume. Try taking .030 at a pass...just because it's better to have something left at the end haha

Okay this might be a dumb question but I need to ask to make sure I am on the right page.

CA glue - the bottle will say CA on it it correct or is it a brand?

I hope someone doesn't might answering this.

thanks