Ski Builders Forum

I was getting my windows tinted the other day and they guy installing them said his buddy has used 3M clear bra as a top sheet protection. I might give it a try, seems to me like that stuff is pretty damn durable. Anyone ever tried it? FYI-clear bra is the stuff they put on the front of cars to protect from rocks, etc.

Are you thinking of using it to cover your topsheet or in place of the topsheet? It'd be great to reduce weight on a splitboard or touring skis.

A sharp ski edge will slice right through it, but it'll still protect from other knicks and dings. Great idea! Half of my Lotus is covered in what they call "Starshield", but it's just the standard 3M clear bra stuff.

Are you thinking of using it to cover your topsheet or in place of the topsheet? It'd be great to reduce weight on a splitboard or touring skis.

In lieu of a poly coat on top of a veneer.

A sharp ski edge will slice right through it, but it'll still protect from other knicks and dings. Great idea! Half of my Lotus is covered in what they call "Starshield", but it's just the standard 3M clear bra stuff.

So Twizz, you think its less durable then multiple poly coats?

Hard to say without trying. I just know that it takes impacts well, but slices/cuts easily. If you jabbed at the top of your ski with your pole (like to break accumulated ice off) I bet it would hold up, but cross your skis and slide the edge on the corner of the sidewall/top sheet and I bet it cuts right in.

My next pair is going to have veneer top sheets so I'm trying to figure out what I want to do on top, so now you've got me thinking about this. I won't be happy unless I get a mirror-smooth crystal-clear finish on these skis.

Arbor uses/used a thin skin clear atop their wood veneer boards called "Duraflex" or something. I've tried various things to this point and none of them have quite worked out (bubbles/adherence/finish/toughness). See if you can get a sample and try it...

I saw a pair of Ski Logik's yesterday up close. They appear to have some sort of film on them because the finish is totally smooth. I have tried many times to get a glass finish with poly and its virtually impossible without a spray booth. I can get pretty damn close but not a mirror finish. I will look into the 3m and see if I can get some.

ski logic claims a 2 part epoxy poly not a separate skin but it may have changed.

Was just doing some research on this and it was used to protect aircraft propellers from chipping.. you could be on to something here!

[url]http://www.pro-tectfilm.com/lamborghini ... hane-film/[/ur]

..It seems to be a urethane in the range of .15mm thick. Doesn't Ride use a lightweight fabric infused with urethane for their topsheets?

Was just doing some research on this and it was used to protect aircraft propellers from chipping.. you could be on to something here!
http://www.pro-tectfilm.com/lamborghini ... thane-film

..It seems to be a urethane in the range of .15mm thick. Doesn't Ride use a lightweight fabric infused with urethane for their topsheets?

This company may be a possibility, Its about 50 miles from me. I think I will call tomorrow.

http://www.argotec.com/index.html

It's difficult to get a flawless finish when using poly or epoxy w/ out some kind of serious dust control. Also the drying time is fairly long so you almost really need a separate dust free room.

I stumbled across this from Krylon, a water based epoxy with a 2hr drying time (that's fast compared to Mirror Coat). http://www.krylonindustrial.com/product ... 244_series

Awhile back I did some tests w/ clear plexiglass and acetone. Acetone melts plexiglass. I gave up because it dried too quickly. But what if the mixture was applied to the wood veneer (or topsheet) before layup? Use 2-3 very thin coats using a plastic spreader like you for epoxy. When dried, do layup. The veneer s/b still bend ok, I think.

Off to the basement for another experiment.....

I've tried the water-base poly finishes. You would have to spend some SERIOUS time ever getting them to work. In a traditional spray sense they suck, they dry at the nozzle from airflow and you basically have to throw the gun away. If there's ANY air circulation where you're working, brushes and sponge rollers suck. The coats never "level". Everything happens so fast that the bubbles trap. And...they're so hard you can't polish them into compliance. That's just my experience though, feel free...

Well, after the stellar endorsement, I think I'll pass.

Awww come on SD, where's your spirit of adventure? I know of a couple of manufacturers that LOVE this crap...I just haven't figured it out yet.