Ski Builders Forum

I have been following along for a while now and also have completed the build of my own press. I am looking for more information on how to get an accurate cut of my base material. I have a mold made of wood for the ski design and then I first tried to use a knife to cut it. This did not work the best. Is the router method the way to go? Is there some other videos out that better explain this part?

thanks for any help.

router is the way to go, but you have to make sure that your material doesn't shift or raise up. Basically it needs to be sandwiched between your mold and other material.

Are there companys that will cut the base material for you if I were to send them my drawing?

If you already have an accurate template (sounds like you do), then don't bother spending the money to have a company cut it for you. Unless you're going into production, it won't be worth it.

It's very quick with a cheap trim router and straight flush-cut router bit. But as doughboy said, you just need to make sure nothing shifts or bends. I just use a lot of spring clips all the way around, and move them as I go so there is room for the router.

I used to cut out my bases by hand with an exacto knife tracing the shape I plotted on paper and then taped to the base. It was terrible, and my skis came out curved (cause the paper would change shape as I cut).

i use a router table with a flush trim bit (top bearing). i just put the base material on top of my template, push it down with my hands and start cutting. this method works because i have a large router table that supports my whole template when cutting.

i wouldn't bother using a company either unless you know someone who does it for a couple of beers (which is how i get my templates...far more important than bases themselves).

I use double-sided carpet tape to hold the base material to the template.
Tip, tail, and in the middle to stop it shifting (don't use too much or you'll never get it off).
Then use a downcut flush trim bit to trim around.
Stops the base from lifting and shears the base off very flush with the template as long as the edge is square.
I've been using a solid carbide spiral from here (Scroll down to the bottom of the page)
Not cheap but awesome quality and works incredibly well.


sam

I built a large router table that the template sits on. I screw the template down to the base. I then use another piece of mdf which is shaped similar to the template and clamp that down. I use the same technique for cutting out cores and base material.

So do you rout the base material on top of the mdf form or on the bottom. Sorry that I am a little lost, its just that the ptex is not that cheap (like you already know) so I am trying my best not to screw this up.

I appreciate all of the feedback.

i have a "shaping table of death", which is just a table i shaped by laying my smallest template down and tracing that with a marker then cutting with jigsaw like 1/4" smaller than the line. that way when i put my base material down, then my template over it... there is enough clamp force between the two even if it doesnt extend to the full size of the template...

go easy with the router... i always take my time to ensure the router is flat flat flat as can be going along the template... any bumping or vibrating could shake the router and cause it to dig into the template or chunk at the base material.... I run my finger along the edge of the cut plastic to check for burrs or spots that didn't cut right, and run over those spots again with the router.

next thing i need is a permanent spot for routering, so i can have a clamp thing come down from the ceiling so i can router all the way around in one pass. using clamps works fine its just slow and annoying. I had a vacuum setup but i was never satisfied with how it worked.

also: start with a new router bit. Use it ONLY for cutting your bases. If you do this you should be able to get more base cuts than you can build skis i'm sure. If the bit is worn at all it wont make a nice cut you'll end up with all these little burs and crap hanging off, then if you scrape them with a razor or sand them off, you just removed that nice 90 degree wall that you cut into the plastic... so now when you put your edges on you'll have gaps.

neatturns wrote:So do you rout the base material on top of the mdf form or on the bottom. Sorry that I am a little lost, its just that the ptex is not that cheap (like you already know) so I am trying my best not to screw this up.

I appreciate all of the feedback.

For my setup the actual template is on the bottom, then the p tex (or the core) and then those pieces of mdf, which are not exactly the template (I use the same top pieces for most shapes). The router runs on the top pieces of mdf, the bit has a bottom bearing and follows the shape of the template which is underneath the p tex, or the wood core.

Impressive DBS

Sammer, have you tried this type of tape?

http://www.vikingtapes.co.uk/Tapes/Doub ... l_tape.htm

Richuk, I've just been using some generic 2" carpet tape. It's very thin and sticks like crazy.
The perm/peel would work pretty good, I think, as getting the tape off the MDF template is easy, getting it off the base is difficult.
I use the same tape to hold the base to the mold. It doesn't stick to the PE surface as good as to the PTEX.

Might have to keep an eye out for something like that next time I'm in the city. They don't list a distributor in Canada but I'm sure there's something similar.

I didn't realize there was so many different types of double sided tape until I Googled it!

neatturns...
The base material is taped sliding side down on top of my template.
The downward action of the bit shears the base against the edge of the template.
I've tried a few different router bits to cut base. So far the downward spiral has produced the best results.
It cuts extremely clean, 1 pass around the template, no hairs or fuzz. No other clean up needed.
It stays taped in place until the edges are glued on then goes to the mold.

What is cool about this "hobby" is that everybody uses different techniques to achieve similar end results.
It will take some time and a few screw-ups for you to figure out what works for you .
Take the time to read every post on these forums then choose you own path!

sam

Forum error = doublepost

Unless you’re building snowboards, the initial step that I always do is to split my P-tex material down the middle and then let it sit for a few days to relax. More often than not these pieces will warp a little as their internal stresses are relaxed. I think this is because most of the base materials we get are remnants from the factory, roll ends, rejects, etc.

Then I simply lay my template on top of the material and trace around it using a sharp knife blade, maintaining a gap of several millimeters to be cleaned-up later.

Eventually I attach the base to my template using several pieces of double sided masking tape. Then I use my router table to trim the material to the exact shape of the template.
I attach the second piece of material to the opposite side of the template and router it to shape as well.

I keep both bases attached to the template during the edge attachment procedure. Working one ski at a time, I attach both left and right edges simultaneously. This ensures that the edges won’t induce base warping (a rookie mistake).

I keep both base/edge assemblies attached to the template until right before pressing the skis. This is not a production worthy method but it works quite well for the hobbyist garage ski builder. My skis are perfectly symmetrical as a result.

Cheers,
S