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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:43 am
by gozaimaas
I am not using tip spacers, my core is full length and I just trim it 10mm inside the the finished shape. It will require doing one side wall at a time and then nose and tail seperately, lucky that stuff goes off relatively fast.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:58 am
by chrismp
ah, so you're pouring the tipspacers as well! it'd be great if you could take some photos of your process and post them here (especially how you pour the tipspacers).

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:12 am
by gozaimaas
I definately will. The only reason I havent started a thread yet is I am doing bits and pieces when I can.
So far I have my cnc board template, 10 cores, core profiling bed, camber profile mould. I still need to build my press, buy the rest of my materials and get it all happening before our southern hemisphere winter. Today was the first snow dusting at the resorts so I am getting keen!

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:35 am
by nrgboards
I was planning on doing the moat method but time constraints and the lack of having a large planer(this snowboard is 13" wide finished) I went this route. I also have been wanting to use base material as my tip fill so gave it a shot and I love the way it works and I get to recycle my scrap!!

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:52 am
by amidnightproject
has anyone tried planing this stuff? I've read through here a couple times but don't remember seeing it. I'm trying to think of the fastest way for me to do this as I'd like to give it a go.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:15 am
by chrismp
have a look at the journal entry i just posted ;) we plane the stuff with a 13" delta planer all the time.
first a couple passes on the top to get everything nice and flush (with the pouring there are often spots where the PU is a bit thicker than elsewhere). then we flip the core over and start planing the underside until the sidewalls show completely and then a couple more passes to get to the final center thickness.
after that the core goes onto the planer crib and the profile is applied.

the PU is pretty tough stuff, so we have to make smaller passes to keep the planer from bogging down. wear on the knives isn't that bad though.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:16 am
by nrgboards
I ll run a test piece thru the planer tonight see how it planes my guess is it will plane alright.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:20 am
by chrismp
hey nrg, looks like you missed my questions before. would be great if you could answer them ;)
just one question. what made you choose this particular resin system? i know it's cheap, but i think there are systems with better properties for our purpose. did you ask them about the properties when exposed to cold temperatures (i've read that some polyurethanes get brittle when in temps below -20°C)?

i just noticed the epson 1400...that's going to get you nice graphics! which resin are you using to coat it and did you add some sort of white pigment to it?

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:20 am
by amidnightproject
Just saw that :D

Funny we are bouncing around like this at the moment


I'm going to order some soon and do some experimenting. I want a more protective sidewall but don't want to deal with plastic strips. I also like the idea of being able to color it at will

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:41 am
by nrgboards
I never contacted them I ordered a small batch of it and did some tests bending it cutting it then decided to go for it in a build and it turned out way better than I expected so I guess the test of time will tell, and the guy I built this board for is a park rat so it will get abused.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:44 am
by nrgboards
I used the 380 on my topsheet tests painted on with a paint brush just to test and definately need to use some type of roller instead and no I didnt use white pigment which I should have but I like what the outcome has so far gunna do some more testing of this soon.

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:50 am
by chrismp
put a sample in the freezer for a couple of hours at the coldest setting and try the bending tests again. that'll give you some reassurance on the cold temp properties of the stuff.

are you using the same resin to coat your paper?

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:05 am
by nrgboards
@chrismp yep

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:48 pm
by gozaimaas
chrismp, I was just checking out your thread and your mote method is excellent. I think that is the best way to pour the urethane.

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:36 am
by gozaimaas
Ok today I routed out a few cores so they can be urethane filled mote style. I can already tell this will be the best method. I have cores prepped for 3 different methods.
1. Mote style with unprofiled core
2. Trough method with profiled core
3. Trough method with unprofiled core
I will post pics and my experiences when I get the test pieces done.