Page 1 of 1

Dimensional Stability of Wood ... erm, aka heat treatment!

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 12:44 pm
by Richuk
Worth a thoughT ...

viewtopic.php?p=21813&highlight=#21813

http://www.wagnerskis.com/ourstory/materials.php

http://www.chabros.com/en/products/deta ... Thermowood

http://142.150.176.36/treated_wood/thermalmod.PDF

http://www.thermotreatedwood.com/Worldwide/France.pdf

http://projects.bre.co.uk/ecotan/pdf/He ... app%20.pdf

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_prese ... treatments - the tung oil thing was helpful too (scroll up)

"Heat treatment The wood must be heated to achieve a minimum core temperature of 56 °C (132.8 °F) for at least 30 minutes. Pallets treated via this method bear the initials HT near the IPPC logo"

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:00 pm
by MontuckyMadman
Lot o links.
would this seal the wood?

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:11 am
by Richuk
Read the third link first - the first two just make the point that two exceptional builders appear incorporate this process.

Main advantages of a professional process is: stability (increases certain structural properties of wood), pest resistant, water resistant.

The results appear to be species specific, so these links are just for reference.

There appears to be some value in heating the core, but to what temperature and what is the affect on the glue used? The alternative is to treat the wood before it is used. Arguably it is easier to treat the soft wood and deals with half the issue at a lower temp. A press similar to that built by Brazen when subbing appear to be a good option given the values involved.

Tung oil appears to be the quality natural sealant.

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:48 am
by strangesnowboarding
nice series of resources.
i have been interested in making our boards more water/mold resistant so as to increase days on the mountain.
the most common failures in my mind are core shots and sidewall/edge breaks. both of these leave the core vulnerable to water damage over the freeze/thaw cycle while riding.
it is these failures that then lead to catastrophic failures in the snowboard once the core material has started to mold (snapping of tip/tail, full unrideable failures).

i have been looking into pressure treated woods for the core (or other options that would protect a "broken" snowboard) using treated woods may work but they are far more expensive and heavy than the alternatives.

these links got me thinking about all this again. thanks!

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:59 am
by Richuk
: )

Not read everything yet or completed all the research, but it's looking like steam treatment is helpful when dealing with water ingress and pest control... Unfortunately this treatment lowers the mechanical property of wood - not a big deal.

Steam treated wood is available from a local supplier - it's on a pair being tested at the moment.

Beech (janka hardness is OK):

http://www.allbusiness.com/agriculture- ... 703-1.html

I'm wondering whether, given the temperatures involved, it is better to look at it like this.

Wood used is kiln dried, thus 12 - 15%. When stored - even before it gets to your workshop, it will adjust to local environment. Assuming additional processing is required to ensure a dimensionally stable core - let say exposure to 120oC (a random figure, but below the 220oC of the industrial process), then do you end up with the best of both worlds, if pre-processed wood (e.g. steamed beech) is then used on the sidewalls?

Still wondering about the effects on the glue ... anyone know the effects on titebond III?

http://142.150.176.36/treated_wood/thermalmod.PDF , ASE - dimensional stability. See page 'results of staybwood', gives temperature and processing time according to thickness.