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Flowcoat instead of topsheet

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 6:50 am
by JackJack
Does anyone use a flowcoat of epoxy as a final layer instead of using a plastic topsheet?

I guess this way you dont get the UV protection that you get from the topsheet. Are there any disadvantages to doing this aside from it perhaps being a little bit more difficult to add graphics?

Thanks

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:10 am
by OAC
Most of us probably does...(but I don't know)
I finish it of with 1 - 2 layers 2-comp. lacquer. which leaves a ok surface if you have done your work on the underlaying layers. I use printer paper with "graphics of the day" :)

It's true that the UV breaks down the epoxi, over time... probably after you are tired of the skis. :) And it's not sunny every day...or all day or where the skis are stored.

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 1:21 pm
by chrismp
the main reason to use a topsheet or some other sort of protective coating is to keep the epoxy from uv light influences.

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 6:12 pm
by hafte
I’ve done it to all of my skis. One less thing to worry about. The UV thing is really not an issue unless you were to leave the skis out in the sun daily all day. After the flash is trimmed and the side wall is beveled sand with 80 grit to give the hot coat something to grip. It will take 3-4 oz. to coat a pair of skis less for the second if needed 190 cm in length, 150mm, 130mm, 122mm (my widest pair). After they cure I sand to 220 and clear coat with a UV rust’o’lium rattle can just to hedge my bet on the UV deal. I like the way they look for about a month then as others have said they start to look poopy.

The best part about this type of top is that it can be refreshed/repaired to almost new. All I get through use are chips along the edge and since I telemark I have a bad wear spot on the inside of the tips. After a year or so I pull the bindings , sand, hot coat, sand and clear coat. I don’t like the spar varnish or spar urethane. It is too yellowing for my tastes and shifts the colors of everything under it.

The epoxy I use has UV inhibitors and an additive for sanding. You can take this epoxy to a polish if you feel like taking the time. You would have to go to 1000-2000 grit to do it. I don’t have the patience. But they would be beautiful… for a while.

Hafte

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 10:18 pm
by knightsofnii
I topsheet due to the amount of daily flex our boards go thru. I dont feel any top.coating or hot coat or whatever would survive the abuse we put our boards thru in the course of a couple park lappers. But others will beg to differ... and it sure does look awesome when someone has a super shiny polished wood top!!

Uv epoxy for top sheet.

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 2:03 pm
by Huck Pitueee
Hey I'm new to the forum hope this reply comes out all right.I've been using Fiberglass Hawaii 2 to 1 uv epoxy for years and like it.If I were going to make a wood veneer top sheet I'd coat the veneer with epoxy on both sides. cover both sides with thick mylar. Squeegee out the bubbles and vacuum press between two pieces of waxed plexiglass or window glass.Mylar doesn't stick to epoxy and the surface comes out insanely shiny.Before using the top sheet I'd rough up the bottom for adhesion and wax the top so no epoxy sticks.

Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 4:36 am
by chaka
I love this forum!!!
Topsheets are a dded pain, they chip away all the time,I was exactly thinking about doing this these days and here´s the thread.