Flowcoat instead of topsheet

For discussions related to ski/snowboard construction/design methods and techniques.

Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp

Post Reply
JackJack
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:39 am

Flowcoat instead of topsheet

Post by JackJack »

Does anyone use a flowcoat of epoxy as a final layer instead of using a plastic topsheet?

I guess this way you dont get the UV protection that you get from the topsheet. Are there any disadvantages to doing this aside from it perhaps being a little bit more difficult to add graphics?

Thanks
OAC
Posts: 961
Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:34 am
Location: Sweden
Contact:

Post by OAC »

Most of us probably does...(but I don't know)
I finish it of with 1 - 2 layers 2-comp. lacquer. which leaves a ok surface if you have done your work on the underlaying layers. I use printer paper with "graphics of the day" :)

It's true that the UV breaks down the epoxi, over time... probably after you are tired of the skis. :) And it's not sunny every day...or all day or where the skis are stored.
User avatar
chrismp
Posts: 1444
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:00 am
Location: Vienna, Austria

Post by chrismp »

the main reason to use a topsheet or some other sort of protective coating is to keep the epoxy from uv light influences.
hafte
Posts: 204
Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 11:40 am

Post by hafte »

I’ve done it to all of my skis. One less thing to worry about. The UV thing is really not an issue unless you were to leave the skis out in the sun daily all day. After the flash is trimmed and the side wall is beveled sand with 80 grit to give the hot coat something to grip. It will take 3-4 oz. to coat a pair of skis less for the second if needed 190 cm in length, 150mm, 130mm, 122mm (my widest pair). After they cure I sand to 220 and clear coat with a UV rust’o’lium rattle can just to hedge my bet on the UV deal. I like the way they look for about a month then as others have said they start to look poopy.

The best part about this type of top is that it can be refreshed/repaired to almost new. All I get through use are chips along the edge and since I telemark I have a bad wear spot on the inside of the tips. After a year or so I pull the bindings , sand, hot coat, sand and clear coat. I don’t like the spar varnish or spar urethane. It is too yellowing for my tastes and shifts the colors of everything under it.

The epoxy I use has UV inhibitors and an additive for sanding. You can take this epoxy to a polish if you feel like taking the time. You would have to go to 1000-2000 grit to do it. I don’t have the patience. But they would be beautiful… for a while.

Hafte
knightsofnii
Posts: 1148
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:02 am
Location: NJ USA
Contact:

Post by knightsofnii »

I topsheet due to the amount of daily flex our boards go thru. I dont feel any top.coating or hot coat or whatever would survive the abuse we put our boards thru in the course of a couple park lappers. But others will beg to differ... and it sure does look awesome when someone has a super shiny polished wood top!!
Doug
Huck Pitueee
Posts: 192
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:51 pm

Uv epoxy for top sheet.

Post by Huck Pitueee »

Hey I'm new to the forum hope this reply comes out all right.I've been using Fiberglass Hawaii 2 to 1 uv epoxy for years and like it.If I were going to make a wood veneer top sheet I'd coat the veneer with epoxy on both sides. cover both sides with thick mylar. Squeegee out the bubbles and vacuum press between two pieces of waxed plexiglass or window glass.Mylar doesn't stick to epoxy and the surface comes out insanely shiny.Before using the top sheet I'd rough up the bottom for adhesion and wax the top so no epoxy sticks.
chaka
Posts: 50
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2005 5:26 am
Location: Alto Campoo/Valle de Benasque

Post by chaka »

I love this forum!!!
Topsheets are a dded pain, they chip away all the time,I was exactly thinking about doing this these days and here´s the thread.
RIDE WITH PRIDE
Post Reply