recently i start doing Sublimation on clear base material, works great
to back print i use a solution from Basler Lack witch is very nice to apply and bonds to the epoxy better then anything. BUT, BUT, when i need to preglue the edges with Loctite my problems arrive... i cant get a consistent glue with the edges, somtimes when i put the board on the press the edges on the curves jump out from the base a simply ruin a board, 2 times happen
Any one with experience like mine???
Best
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:07 am
by knightsofnii
is it cyanoacrylite glue, aka crazy/super glue?
What kind of edges? I noticed depending on the edges you have to use more or less of the glue. The made in austria ones that I had for a bit, they would pop off easier, not to mention rust in seconds flat. The coated edges from CDW seem to hold better, even to back-flooded stuff.
Also, the closer your edge is truly bent to your shape, the easier it will secure itself down. Last couple boards I spent way more time matching edges to curves, and it only took a few drops of glue to hold it down.
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:33 am
by hugocacola
hey knight
i now you would anser this one .
regarding the edges and glue
the glue is superglue, and the edges i dont know where they came from but the glue dont stick to good on the the lacker... thas why i put this post.
regarding the CDW edges, they are from Germany or Austria, because they have a factory there,
do you have contact from sells men???
Best
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:38 am
by hugocacola
In this movie Mervin Manufacture uses 2 components glue, check it out at 2:35 minute.
first she use one bottle with one color tip, then she use another one to finish gluing....
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 5:29 pm
by Brazen
Call them and let us know eh?
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:19 pm
by strangesnowboarding
you can get pure cyanoaccrylate (butchered spelling) at most train style hobby stores. they also sell a spray hardener that cures it instantly. i assume that is what is being used in the vid. i used this all thru architecture school to hold fiddly bits of models together, works scary fast.
Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:06 am
by hugocacola
the main problem is not curing the glue, it get cuerd fast, the problem is the bonding, it dosent bond to the ink, and the ink is epoxi ink more then cured...
i bought a fast glue at ispo, from a greman manufacture and it bonds very fast, so fast and pratacly to everything but to this ink is impossibe...
i realy dont know what to do... ill try a diferent ink from another manufacturer
Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:16 am
by skibum
Why don't you try using epoxy to hold the edges. Epoxy seems to still bond to your base material. Just mix up a small amount (same expoy you use for the rest of the ski) and use a small brush to apply a small amount to the edges and remove the excess so the core can still sit flush. Obviously this will take longer to dry but will be cheaper the ruining more boards. Prior does there edges this way. I have not done them this way myself so there may be a better solution for you but this should work.
Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:16 pm
by knightsofnii
Mervin is using a stronger two part glue... like epoxy it is the base glue and then you spray on the "activator" and it cures instantly. I like superflue cuz the excess is easy to wipe off or it evaporates just not ss tough a bond... maybe there is super quick epoxy out there to try?? Id love to just use jb-weld which is two part with metal in it
Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:25 pm
by doughboyshredder
hugocacola wrote:In this movie Mervin Manufacture uses 2 components glue, check it out at 2:35 minute.
first she use one bottle with one color tip, then she use another one to finish gluing....
second bottle is just accelerator.
Hugo, make sure your edges are bent to shape, so that the glue is not holding the shape. Your edge should stay on regardless of whether or not the glue doesn't stay bonded in the press. The glue should be thought of as temporary any way.
Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:28 pm
by doughboyshredder
knightsofnii wrote:Mervin is using a stronger two part glue... like epoxy it is the base glue and then you spray on the "activator" and it cures instantly. I like superflue cuz the excess is easy to wipe off or it evaporates just not ss tough a bond... maybe there is super quick epoxy out there to try?? Id love to just use jb-weld which is two part with metal in it
Wrong.
It's just cyanoacrylate and accelerator. There are different types of accelerator available, I don't know which one mervin uses, but I do know for a fact that they are using cyanoacrylate.
Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:46 pm
by hugocacola
yep do the right edge bending is the way to do, and i do it, but as i am doing shapes like Smokin and LIB, its more difficult to bend it right...
my next project will be a edge bending machine, with step motors etc...
Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:47 pm
by hugocacola
yep do the right edge bending is the way to do, and i do it, but as i am doing shapes like Smokin and LIB, its more difficult to bend it right...
my next project will be a edge bending machine, with step motors etc...
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 5:02 pm
by WSM
Using a cyanoacrylite glue, to position the edges - which hold it quite firmly, never had any problems with the edge coming off - Ive noticed that it causes a slight dis coloration in the bases (white base, that becomes slightly opaque). Its barely noticeable, but still noticeable...even after the board is pressed, and you have a detailed look @ the base. Havent noticed it in the black bases.... its prob nothing, and me just being picky.
Cheers
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 11:06 am
by sir.orange
what are the alternative to cyancrylate (super glue)? in another topic i read super glue being very brittle, this might be one if my problems that makes the edges pop off sometimes..
what is an alternative glue?? (fast curing, 1-component)
