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issue with my profiler
Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:12 pm
by EricW
so I'm running test pieces through the planer but it feeds the test through and leaves the crib sitting there. What can I do to make it all travel together? Glue some sand paper on it?
Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:25 pm
by telehead
I bought some "Grip Tape" at the home depot. It is 2" wide, comes in a roll, I think it used for stair treads. I put a couple of pieces the full length of my profile crib with no slip at all. You might try a skateboard shop also....
Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:11 pm
by switzch
People also just hot glue the tips and tails
Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:59 pm
by leboeuf
I used blobs of hot glue every couple of inches along my core perimeter and things worked out perfectly.
Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:27 pm
by EricW
Hot glue. I dig it.
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:34 am
by OAC
My choice: Sand paper.
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:06 am
by Dr. Delam
Make sure you take into account the thickness of the sandpaper. If you don't have it full width across the crib and also from tip to tail, you will get thickness variations.
My method is full proof and you can switch cores easily without messing around with adhesive or making sure your core is in the exact same place each time.
I drill two quarter inch holes in the cores between the binding mount areas. I line up my core where I want it and then put some screws through the holes and thread them into the crib. The screw heads are below the finished core height of course. The screws are not actually holding the core down but basically serve as a post to prevent the core from sliding forward. You can switch from one core to the next instantly before changing your thickness.
The holes are filled with dowels glued to the base to keep the base and core aligned when pressing.
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:17 am
by falls
I second what the doctor said about having the tape the same thickness all the way across and along the crib. Failing to do this can cause slight irregularities in thickness.
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:35 am
by twizzstyle
I used to do hot glue, but then I did skateboard grip tape and it works perfect, and no glue to pick off when you're done. I got the grip tape pretty cheap at a skate shop.
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 8:32 am
by Brazen
I've been using this to hold down a multitude of things in the shop, works great. Here's the McMaster Carr #76405A17
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 8:56 am
by ben_mtl
OK, I know it's a stupid question but how do you make sure you to-be-profiled core stays tight against the crib ?
My core blanks are about 12mm thick and at that thickness it's a real pain to make them conform the crib shape... I'm not sure my planer is good enough to push everything down while cutting.
I use an old Delta like this one (
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachmen ... -tp305.jpg)
After a couple attempts with a planer crib I'm doing with the router bridge method + vacuum table. It works OK but I'm sure I could go faster and have a greater control on dust with a planer...
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:58 am
by twizzstyle
You'd be surprised Ben, it just sort of works.
At the start when the core is uncut you don't need it to push down all the way in the center, just enough to clear the blades. As the ends get thinner it's easier to bend down.
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:36 am
by skidesmond
Ben-Mtl- I have the same planer but it's older. It does work. My last core was 3-12-3.
Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 am
by twizzstyle
Yeah I have a plasticy Ryobi that looks nearly identical to that Jet, you should be fine.
Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:10 am
by ben_mtl
well... I guess I have give it another try then.
If I can find a large enough piece of MDF I'll use the router bridge to make a planer crib :p
I have to find how to adjust the planer blade though, the blade is not exactly parallel to the sliding surface (0.5mm difference side-to-side)...
Thanks for all the info