Problem with first ski.

For discussions related to ski/snowboard construction/design methods and techniques.

Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp

Post Reply
PowderKing
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:21 am
Location: Davos CH and Laren NL
Contact:

Problem with first ski.

Post by PowderKing »

I was finishing my ski's sidewalls with router when suddenly sparks occurred. I stopped immediately and noticed that I had cut away more sidewall than needed. It was more than the steel edges. What happened was that my bearing that followed my steel edges had moved because the screw came loose. Now there is a gap in my ski! Does somebody knows a way to fix this? I was thinking of poring some epoxy so the hole will be filled but are there better ways to fix it? I will do my best to upload some pic's ASAP.

Sorry for my English, if I make mistakes, but I am from Holland and still in school. I'm 15.

I hope somebody can help me.
Thanks.
Building skis when there ain't no pow!
blackdog
Posts: 9
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2010 7:43 am
Location: Roslyn, WA

Post by blackdog »

I had the exact same problem with a bad bearing. I just built damn like they show for epoxy sidewalls on this site and poured in some epoxy, then retried the router trick. I have over 20 days on the skis without any problems.
User avatar
falls
Posts: 1458
Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:04 pm
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

Post by falls »

Or you could cut the piece of edge/base out and replace a short section of edge and base like you would with a damaged edge from skiing.

Welcome to the pain of routering sidewalls!!
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
sammer
Posts: 933
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:37 pm
Location: Fernie B.C.
Contact:

Post by sammer »

Had the exact thing happen... Twice!!
Well, once the bearing came loose, the other time it just kinda hooked the edge and took a good sized bite!
Filled the "holes" with epoxy, so far so good.
Not routering sidewalls anymore just gonna use the belt sander to bevel them. Worked alright the first few pairs
Hate f-ing up a pair of skis in the final stages.

sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...

Best of luck to you. (uneva)
PowderKing
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:21 am
Location: Davos CH and Laren NL
Contact:

Post by PowderKing »

Thanks for your help! I will try to fill it up with epoxy.

Mickey
Building skis when there ain't no pow!
Buuk
Posts: 150
Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:49 am
Location: The Netherlands

Post by Buuk »

Had about the same problem with my first ski too. I used UHMWPE sidewalls on them and fixed it by melting some base material and dribble it into the gap. Best way to fix the router ball bearing is to use some loc-tite on the screw.

Buuk
Make things as simple as possible, but not too simple
OnDeck
Posts: 201
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 6:02 am

Post by OnDeck »

I did a similar thing. In my case I left too small a step over the metal edge, then lifted the bearing off the rail when the base of the router followed the camber. This, and another similar balls-up, has led to a good habit; a "dry run" with router turned off to make sure the height is right, no bumps, unexpected obstacles etc.
PowderKing
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:21 am
Location: Davos CH and Laren NL
Contact:

Post by PowderKing »

Thanks that's a verry usefull tip!
Building skis when there ain't no pow!
skidesmond
Posts: 2337
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
Location: Western Mass, USA
Contact:

Post by skidesmond »

This has always been a do or die point of ski building. You can ruin a lot of work w/ one slip.

I'm going to start doing it the way Head Monkey did it. Get a tilt base for the router (or make a wedge for the base of the router like some have done), use straight cutting bit w/ a top bearing. Trim the edge with the base facing up. In this way the bearing is running along the metal edge with the ski being cut underneath and the router is on a flat surface instead of riding over the top profile of the ski.

Does that make sense? There's pics in another post somewhere....
OAC
Posts: 961
Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:34 am
Location: Sweden
Contact:

Post by OAC »

Headmonkey's Blog Has it all. :)
skidesmond
Posts: 2337
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
Location: Western Mass, USA
Contact:

Post by skidesmond »

OAC wrote:Headmonkey's Blog Has it all. :)
Yes it does. And by reading it I just found out about an exterior water based poly, Clear Satin System Three WR-LPU Polyurethane Topcoat. Wow, really does have it all.
Richuk
Posts: 1146
Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:53 am
Location: The Duchy of Grand Fenwick

Post by Richuk »

You can reduce the risk by a bit of advanced prep. If it goes wrong at this stage, you have a chance to make a repair. There's still about 1mm remaining, but it's better to do a final trim than a substantial cut. Arguably this is an addition of another step, but worth the compromise IMHO

Image
Post Reply