Ski Builders Forum

hey guys

for my next skis i'm gonna using a clear topsheet, colored on the backside.

now i'm wondering if nobody had a problem with the bonding between the color and the laminate. what color do you use for screenprinting?


and what the hell do i have to do if i wanna show you my first build? the forum just tells me: In order to try to prevent spammers, we do not allow our users to post URLs in any form until they have posted at least 2 legitimate posts...

Aloha

I have used "Sharpies" to do artwork on the backside of the skibuilders topsheet material. It works really well, a little "bleeding" on the colors but all in all it looks good. I gave my friends kid (that was 8 at the time) a hand full of colored markers and some topsheet material and he just went for it with all kinds of drawings and stuff. It was really cool, and when he gets done with the skis I will make him his frst "Shotski" !!! KT

and what the hell do i have to do if i wanna show you my first build? the forum just tells me: In order to try to prevent spammers, we do not allow our users to post URLs in any form until they have posted at least 2 legitimate posts...

Post more than twice.

topsheet colored from the back is screened with epoxy based inks, good for bonding. Topsheet colored from the top or front is sublimated using water based inks that transfer and go into the pbt or nylon or UHMW topsheet material. Epoxy inks are hard to work with, have high VOC's and are generally used for base color.
Sublimation is the way to go if you have a complicated design. Screening the materials is good for flow coats or simple designs. benmtl has a thread in the journal section outlining his experience.

We really differ on this. If you're using crowns natural, that anyone who draws or paints art with uses, dye sublimation is SO not the thing to do...it's absolutely fuzzy and illegible in any process. IMO it's better to inkjet or paint with epoxy floodcoat type paints. No bonding issues.

I did some test layups with epoxy screen printing inks and the bonding was good. Nazdar brand have a ski specific catalyst. My latest pair (journal called "getting started") has a back painted image on clear base material. You let the ink dry for 4 days before layup. I lightly sanded the ink with 120 grit before layup. Ben-mtl also has a thread showing his topsheets screen printing tests (I think prospectsnow started the thread called cheap and dirty screen printing).
The skevik journal (user redbull) also shows screen printing full length topsheet designs with nazdar inks.

The "clear" plastics from skibuilders aren't really that clear. Isosport have thinner clearer products but minimum orders are a trouble.

I think it is becoming a recurring idea that it is difficult to dye sublimate onto ptex plastic. Dye sub printing is much more effective onto PBT (may have topsheet chipping issues) or polyamide (aka nylon).