Ski Builders Forum

With all the router talk......
Lets talk routers.... types, uses, accessories, bits etc.
I have three.
a ryobi fixed
a bosch plunge
a porter cable tilt base trim router
the bosch is the least used.
the ryobi the most.
the porter cable only for sidewalls.,

I have limited experience with things like guide bushings and the like, but would like to learn more. (maybe g-man can elaborate)
Am about to build a new template (for a snowboard) out of 3/4 mdf and just do the base outline....then take a rabbeting bit w/ bearing and cutting a recess which will then serve as my core template.... sorta a two-sided thing. will post a pic when done.
I think guide bushings would be very usefull to those of us w/ no cnc access. I would like to eliminate the waste when cutting base using a fat-ass template/flush cut bit....ie: instead use a smaller template / bushing and a small kerf bit????
make sense???
R

So far I'm a fan of the Bosch 1618 and Bosch in general for that matter. The seem to have really stepped up their game in the last few years. The D-handle is pretty sweet and the trigger on the grip is a great safety mechanism if you accidentally let go or it gets ripped from your hands.

I like the dewalt 618 which is the replacement for the 621 but it seems to have a high failure rate which is a bummer. I'd rather get the fixed/plunge kit but not if it's going to burn up in a few months or even weeks. Concept of it is really nice but china = bad.

porter cable between me and a ski building helper partner guy we have 5.
Multi purpose except for the trim router for sidewalls.

I have a ridgid multi speed with interchangeable fixed and plunge bases.

I have no idea what the plunge is for, or how to use it properly.
I am starting to figure out what speeds are best for what, and how the speed of the bit combines with the feed rate (how fast you move the router). Main thing I realized is slower speeds are better for plastic.

I also use a laminate trimmer for some stuff. Mainly sidewall angles and trimming up the tip and tail on the core. I quit routing sidewalls though, and am now using a block sander and rounding them off by hand. It looks better imo, and no risk of ruining a board right as you're almost done with it.

FreshPimp, how do you like your Porter Cable tilting router? I have been making shims for my Bosch Colt but it would be nice to change the angle on the fly instead of having to unscrew the shims every time I want to change it. Plus my fine adjust on my Colt router is starting to crap out on me.

Check out my journal post for my latest router application.

I just have a ryobi trim router. A bit lame!

Freshpimp: I've had the same idea as you with your double sided template. Except get them CNC cut so the shallow plunge is for core shape and the deep plunge a bit further out for base template.

I have 2 right now, a Freud FT2000E plunge router 3 1/4hp and Sears Craftsman 1 1/4hp.

The Sears still works but the base tends to travel/loosen now from vibration. It's basic and about 20 years old. Time to retire it. There are much better routers out there now.

The Freud is powerful and a real work horse. I've used the plunge for drilling holes w/ 1/2inch router bit because my drill press sucks. At some point I'll make a router table for it.

I'll be looking for a new router soon, something with the features of the Freud but on a smaller scale (dust pick up, variable speed, slow start,...). Plenty to choose from.

G-man gave the Dewalt 618 a pretty good review, I may give that more thought. What happened to the post? I can't find it now.

The porter cable tilt base is sweet......
except...
I don't like how small the base is. The first few sets of sidewalls I trimmed were gouged because of a combination of my unsteady hand and the tiny amount of bearing resting on the edge. I am much smoother now and haven't gouged anything in a while.
I guess it just takes practice.

Working on a pair of 160-150-160 monstrosities for a buddy. Because planning ahead would make to much sense, I went ahead and routered off a base. Going to cut out #2 i realize I no longer have the width I need due to the fact that I used a 1/4in flush cut bit.....(had to get another piece of base). If I were to do this again I think I should be using a guide bushing and a small kerf bit against a smaller template???

2 in 1 template should happen this weekend. Winter is coming quicker than I get stuff done.

R

EricW wrote:G-man gave the Dewalt 618 a pretty good review, I may give that more thought. What happened to the post? I can't find it now.

Is this it:

viewtopic.php?t=2628&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0


or it's an earlier post above.

I've not been too worried about my two routers. One is inserted into my bench, so it is fixed, the other is hand held. One wedge shaped jig makes up for the absence of a tilting base - too expensive. Both routers plunge - not that I will ever do any panel carving with them.

The bench router is always following a guide using some kind of bearing trim bit - keeps everything consistent.

I took the view that quality cutters were more important - I don't disagree with Head Monkeys view that cheap cutter do a great job, but I can't find that brand in the UK - our cheap cutters are nasty.

At the end of the day, a router spins a cutter - no great shakes.

Reviving this old thread as I'm in the process of "tooling up" for my first build and am in the market for a workhorse router (I'll be using a planer to profile the cores).

Is a plunge base necessary for typical ski-building applications? Any minimum specs I should be on the lookout for? Based on this (and similar) threads, seems like 2+ hp with a 1/2" collet and variable speed?

nfaust wrote:Reviving this old thread as I'm in the process of "tooling up" for my first build and am in the market for a workhorse router (I'll be using a planer to profile the cores).

Is a plunge base necessary for typical ski-building applications? Any minimum specs I should be on the lookout for? Based on this (and similar) threads, seems like 2+ hp with a 1/2" collet and variable speed?

A plunge router isn't necessary. 1/2" collet and 2+hp, variable speed is good. Lots of routers out there to choose from.

skidesmond wrote:

nfaust wrote:Reviving this old thread as I'm in the process of "tooling up" for my first build and am in the market for a workhorse router (I'll be using a planer to profile the cores).

Is a plunge base necessary for typical ski-building applications? Any minimum specs I should be on the lookout for? Based on this (and similar) threads, seems like 2+ hp with a 1/2" collet and variable speed?

A plunge router isn't necessary. 1/2" collet and 2+hp, variable speed is good. Lots of routers out there to choose from.

Thanks, hopefully I can find a good deal on a name brand. Got lucky with the planer - home depot had a ryobi on closeout for $50! I know they're not the best quality, but I don't think the price can be beat.

I have this freud fixed plunge combo, it has some good features for a mid range router.

http://woodworking.about.com/od/recomme ... er-Kit.htm