I'm going by memory, but that is the TPI is right around 14, 15, 16. i wa told i shoudl use a fine blade.
Actually, the blade was surprisingly expensive (around $50) which is one reason why this is pissingme off!
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 8:54 am
by OAC
Hmm sorry to hear. It's obviously for wood, fine wood.
I tried it with a metal blade I have, but then I had the opposite problem. Taking some pieces of the edges off. No good either. So, I'm using my jig saw instead. In my opinion a better way to do it. At least with the blades I have right now.
I'm using the band saw only for my cores and use the roughest blade I could find for that type of band saw. 1/2" and 4 tpi.
If I going to go on with this hobby I will (or have to) by a bigger band saw. More power.
Good luck
bandsaw blade
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:29 am
by teleman36
Please check my post from sept. 09. Hopefully it will shed some light. Good luck
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:29 am
by OnDeck
Telemn36, thanks for the info. 4-6tpi, 1/4" - 1/2" blade, check. I'll give it a go.
I notice that the skibuilders site recomends using a metal cutting blade. I guess i'll try your way and report back on what works best...or is cheapest!
Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 5:52 am
by ben_mtl
Didn't want to start a new topic for that but wanted to share to info with you guys.
First I have to admit I'm a real retard when it comes to using a table saw, I hardly manage to make straight cuts, especially in the ends of long pieces ! It gives me some headaches when I'm in the process of preparing core blanks !
I was looking for quite some time for a great blade for my table saw for when I slice the wood blocks I make to get core blanks.
Previously I was using some pricey all purpose blades (I use my table saw not only for slicing cores...) but yesterday I finally decided to buy a "ripping" blade. I went with the "not that expensive" Freud Diablo ripping blade, I believe it has less than 30 teeth.
Result is pure awesomeness ! I only have a cheap table saw but with this blade it slices 2.5" of ash and maple like if it was butter (well... at least compared to other blades I had..)
I also extended the surface of my table saw, adding a 3' extension on both the front and rear of the saw so my planks are always supported. Also made a 8' long fence (just a MDF leftover) so everything is guided perfectly all the way.
It's not that friendly to install all this setup but the results I got was really worth the trouble.
Now, my core blanks are more precise than before, I go faster, cuts are cleaner and I'm only stressing out when setting everything up, after that it's super easy ! It's still a time consuming process but I have a better control on quality now.
I'll take pictures next time I set all this up ! (won't be soon, I cut enough core blanks for 5 pairs yesterday !)
My next project : a glue spreader. I still can't do it nicely by hand with a "spatula", I've seen in a video some times ago some kind of roller the guy was running his boards onto to have glue applies, then he placed all his planks in a press to laminate them... this roller would be perfect for me !
Basically I think it's an horizontal roller, about 10" wide maximum. It's installed over a container, open on the top with glue in it so the bottom of the roller is always "in the glue"... saw that system for waxing skis also (not with glue obviously).
Treat your new blade as a baby! You can use oven cleaner to clean it. The blade, NOT the baby!
Looking forward for some pictures.
Cheers
Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 3:12 pm
by rockaukum
Spray the table and blade with silicone spray.
ra
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 9:05 am
by Brazen
The best advice I ever got on this (from Lindsay at SBM) was to use a bi-metal 10-14tpi. It has 2 heights of teeth and it works awesomely, cuts quicker than a hot knife through a butterstick barricade.
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:26 pm
by twizzstyle
Nice, cause I just bought a 14tpi bi-metal blade for my saw last week for cutting steel, I'll have to try it out on my next pair. Thanks!
Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:19 pm
by OnDeck
Brazen wrote:The best advice I ever got on this (from Lindsay at SBM) was to use a bi-metal 10-14tpi. It has 2 heights of teeth and it works awesomely, cuts quicker than a hot knife through a butterstick barricade.
i got that same blade and maybe I'm a pussy, but i thought it was too aggressive. i cut a cassette out with it and it got nice and dull and now it's perfect.
Posted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 11:37 am
by nfaust
ben_mtl wrote:My next project : a glue spreader. I still can't do it nicely by hand with a "spatula", I've seen in a video some times ago some kind of roller the guy was running his boards onto to have glue applies, then he placed all his planks in a press to laminate them... this roller would be perfect for me !
Basically I think it's an horizontal roller, about 10" wide maximum. It's installed over a container, open on the top with glue in it so the bottom of the roller is always "in the glue"... saw that system for waxing skis also (not with glue obviously).
Sounds like a glue spreader one would use for pressing skateboards? Seen here around the 2 min mark.