OAC 2010/11
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
OAC 2010/11
Warm up post!
Time to log this years models.
"B 52's!" 185 cm, 140 - 110 - 130, r=26 m
"Le Tigre!" 170 cm, 130 - 80 - 100, r=17 m
First:
1. Workshop updates. New machinery!
Tablesaw/table router/ jointer/ planer worth the name! I was so sick of all the cheap tools and machinery, not delivering!
Ski building is not about spending money!
But if the opportunity appears, buy proper tools! I've said it before and say it again.
2. Cores
It's poplar-maple-poplar-maple-poplar-maple-poplar......
This log made four cores!
1 pair for "B 52's" (9 mm)
1 pair for "Le Tigre" (10 mm)
Next step, profiling the cores!
Stay tuned!
Cheers
Time to log this years models.
"B 52's!" 185 cm, 140 - 110 - 130, r=26 m
"Le Tigre!" 170 cm, 130 - 80 - 100, r=17 m
First:
1. Workshop updates. New machinery!
Tablesaw/table router/ jointer/ planer worth the name! I was so sick of all the cheap tools and machinery, not delivering!
Ski building is not about spending money!
But if the opportunity appears, buy proper tools! I've said it before and say it again.
2. Cores
It's poplar-maple-poplar-maple-poplar-maple-poplar......
This log made four cores!
1 pair for "B 52's" (9 mm)
1 pair for "Le Tigre" (10 mm)
Next step, profiling the cores!
Stay tuned!
Cheers
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- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
- Location: Western Mass, USA
- Contact:
Thanks.
I use an Elu (DeWalt nowadays) it's a 750W (~1 hp). It has an opening of almost 8" (20 cm).
I use a 1/2" 4 TPI blade. It's alright and doesn't take that long time. I didn't have any trouble with my maple/poplar log. Also 6".
But sadly it has a aluminium table. This is no good if you want to clamp something to the table. (see pic 2)
On my bandsaw-wish-list there is a iron table. And I wouldn't hesitate to step up to next level. My model is definitely the smallest you should have for a proper result. Someone will probably disagree, but this is my opinion.
Some pics:
A steady fence is a must!
Cheers
I use an Elu (DeWalt nowadays) it's a 750W (~1 hp). It has an opening of almost 8" (20 cm).
I use a 1/2" 4 TPI blade. It's alright and doesn't take that long time. I didn't have any trouble with my maple/poplar log. Also 6".
But sadly it has a aluminium table. This is no good if you want to clamp something to the table. (see pic 2)
On my bandsaw-wish-list there is a iron table. And I wouldn't hesitate to step up to next level. My model is definitely the smallest you should have for a proper result. Someone will probably disagree, but this is my opinion.
Some pics:
A steady fence is a must!
Cheers
for resawing "the bigger the better" is the way to go.
we recently bought a bandsaw with 800mm wheel diameter, which allows us to use a special resawing blade thats 1mm thick, 32mm wide and has 1.3tpi hook teeth (less tpi give you a pretty rough finish not suited for veneer resawing, but less teeth mean the blade cuts through the wood a lot better since it can carry more material with one tooth).
with that blade we cut through a 31cm thick block of paulownia/beech in a couple of seconds!
we recently bought a bandsaw with 800mm wheel diameter, which allows us to use a special resawing blade thats 1mm thick, 32mm wide and has 1.3tpi hook teeth (less tpi give you a pretty rough finish not suited for veneer resawing, but less teeth mean the blade cuts through the wood a lot better since it can carry more material with one tooth).
with that blade we cut through a 31cm thick block of paulownia/beech in a couple of seconds!
@OAC: haha, nope no autofeeder. what we have is a 500kg steel monster from the 1960ies. sniped it on a local classified for about 300 Eur!
@shopvac: i wouldn't do the profiling with our bandsaw. yes, it is pretty accurate indeed, but setting up the fence that well is a pain in the you know where
and with a smaller saw and smaller blades you can get blade drift, which would pretty much ruin the process.
btw, OAC do you see any blade drift on your saw?
@shopvac: i wouldn't do the profiling with our bandsaw. yes, it is pretty accurate indeed, but setting up the fence that well is a pain in the you know where
and with a smaller saw and smaller blades you can get blade drift, which would pretty much ruin the process.
btw, OAC do you see any blade drift on your saw?
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
I've often thought about using a planer crib basically on its side, with a couple of rollers setup near the bandsaw blade to push the core into the crib (just as a planer crib in a planer works). Being able to cut a core in one pass on the bandsaw sounds very inviting!
My band saw is a smallish Grizzly 14", but I think it might be up for the task. I just need to do some test cuts and see what happens.
Looks like a great start to some news skis OAC!
My band saw is a smallish Grizzly 14", but I think it might be up for the task. I just need to do some test cuts and see what happens.
Looks like a great start to some news skis OAC!
I've been thinking alot how to do that. Haven't solved it yet. I have a couple of pictures in my head, but they wont come out.twizzstyle wrote:I've often thought about using a planer crib basically on its side, with a couple of rollers setup near the bandsaw blade to push the core into the crib (just as a planer crib in a planer works). Being able to cut a core in one pass on the bandsaw sounds very inviting!
Didn't we have a discussion about this earlier this year? The "coremaster 3000!"
The first who solve and build it win a price!