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[EricW]

I think i worded my question poorly. I know sandblasting doesn't temper metal. I was asking if you would have to sandblast it after you torched it.

[a.badner]

imo, i think sandblasting it again would give a worse adhering to the edge.
because its some what abraded by flaming it and it give more places for the glue to go and harden.

and its not just the tips that fell off. it was the entire edge. ( i only flamed the tips)

[Richuk]

There's going to be a temperature difference between your fingers and the steel, was it cold when you were gluing on the edges? I'm not using the Sammer scale of cold. I've not had a problem in the past, but I did notice the additional time it took. Try a small piece indoors in the warm.

If the above fails, then I would buy new glue. The link you were given was for gorilla 'super glue'. Worth spending a couple of dollars to be able to discount this issue.

I'm assuming you cleaned the edges before use?

If the same thing happens after buying new glue, then your having a reaction with the type of acetone you are using. Suitable gloves are essential.

Happy Monkey sandblasts after annealing, so I always took the view that it was required.

[doughboyshredder]

........

[a.badner]

hey, i got some gorrilla super glue this morning. expensive but quality product.
glued my edges in this morning. i would of never thought bending edges is that easy. it dries in like a minute in cold weather.

AND it was snowing for the second time here. glueing edges in -1 degrees(celcius). worked easily.

oh and about sand blasting i actually sanded off the tarnish from edge. no need to have a fancy sandblaster

[doughboyshredder]

.........

[a.badner]

sanded with a rough grit.

[doughboyshredder]

sanded with a rough grit.

doesn't matter.

like I said head monkey has tested all of this methodically. An edge that has not been sandblasted will not have a good bond.

If you haven't taken the time, I highly suggest you read his site. He has built the highest quality custom boards that you can build. His techniques rival anyones in the industry.

http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/HM ... struction/

don't be put off by the fact that he was building boards. The only real difference between boards and skis from a manufacturing standpoint is the width of the laminate.

[a.badner]

i have seen this.

like i said, most of the tarnish is gone. and it left some what of a rough surface. its a 60 grit ceramic sander. the difference in blast and sanding is that the marking in the steel are more like lines over little dots.

i can taake pictures if you want me to.

[doughboyshredder]

.......

[a.badner]

worse.
im more like a 4' thick concrete wall, lined with pollycarbonate.

[doughboyshredder]

that's not something to be proud of.

I was stubborn like you when I was young. It's a self defeating personality trait. Get over it.

[a.badner]

its not so much that i'm stubborn. its more of a clean balance of conceitedness and how stupid people piss me off. don't worry its not you.

[Dr. Delam]

I have sandblasted hundreds of edges. It takes time but it is necessary if you want to do things right.

[twizzstyle]

Superglue is best when it can "soak in" to whatever you're bonding. Like balsa wood, its the best glue you can use (i.e. model airplanes). Obviously this doesn't work with ski edges.

It doesn't really form a permanent bond to the metal (and its a marginal bond to the base material). The only purpose is to hold it in place before the layup. If it just straight up fell off, then yeah it was probably crap glue. But don't go overboard with the new stuff, you only need a small dot of glue every once in a while (I do about every foot, more on the tips).

I cold-bend my edges (but I have my fancy edge bender I made that makes it easy) so no worry about ruining the temper.

(Your edges should not be cracking from butters, something else is happening. The fatigue life of the steel far exceeds however many times you have flexed the tips of your skis)